Quarter sawn red oak question

[Frode]

Hi folks!
It's been a while since I've been on to post, though I have been watching and voting on BOMs.
I ran through a spell where everything I touched turned to kindling, sometimes dramatically, which tends to blunt the confidence level, but, as they used to say here, "if you ain’t breakin', you ain’t makin' ".  So, I'm still building, and keeping more in one piece than not, but they tend to be light, around 30#@28", plus or minus.  That's fine for indoor target practice, for me and my wife, and the occasional newcomer to our little group who's never shot before and needs something light for starters.  Along the way, I'm starting to get the hang of making fast light bows, but eventually, you do have to go heavier.  I was asked to make a "long bow", along the lines of 45#@28".  I have a nice piece of quarter sawn red oak that I've used, gluing some scrap from the same board on to thicken up the handle.  Dimensions are 69 1/2" ntn, 1 3/4" wide at the fades running down to about 5/16" at the tips.  I'm still working it down, so far I've had it to 44#@22", easing it toward the final 45#@28".  Also, linen backed, and don't mind the rough around the edges handle area, I always save that for last.
Call me gun shy, but the runout along the sides of the limb just jumps out at me.  I've done one before (white oak) and it worked (it eventually failed, but at the edge of a ghost of a knot, not the edge), but it's still a worrisome thing to me.
I thought it might be best to get it in front of some folks who know what they're doing, at least for a gut check.
Am I worried for nothing?
Thanks,
Frode

[wood_bandit 99]

Well what else are you gonna do?!? I say either try to make a bow following the guidelines or make it lighter and next time find a better board. If it were me I would follow the guidelines because I don't expect a break but if it does at least I tried for something I wanted and I will have to find a better board  or staves. Just my 2 cents

[Josh B]

Since I cant see through the backing I'm gonna base my answer on the assumption that you have a good straight grained piece of wood.  The runout in pic three is unavoidable with quartersawn as the limbs taper in width toward the tips.  In fact, any piece of wood is going to have some sort of grain runout on the width taper.  Whether it be boards or staves you're using for your bow.  Just be sure to have a nice radius on the edged (no square sharp edges)  and its not a problem.  As I said every bow with a width taper has grain runout.  It can't be avoided.  I hope that helps.  Josh

[Frode]

Thanks, guys!  I forgot to mention it, but the grain on this is actually really nice!  This board and its twin were the best out of a whole stack of pretty good looking oak.  The linen, that was partly because I was skittish, but also because the recipient is artistically inclined, and will likely do some painting or decorating on the back.  I've found that a linen back is a good canvass to work on (and also discourages any thoughts of wood burning or decorative carving that might lead to future disasters    ).
I'll proceed, then, with generous radii and caution!   
Thanks!
Frode

[George Tsoukalas]

Actually, you want straight grain on the edge for 1/4 sawn. The tiller looks good. Jawge

[JackCrafty]

Because of the taper in the limbs, you should expect to see grain run-out.  From the belly, the grain looks really straight, so I wouldn't worry at all.

[Frode]

Thank you, George!  That would make things easier, heheh.  Live and learn, right?
Frode

[Frode]

Thank you, Patrick!  (Your post popped up just as I was replying to George.)
Frode

[JW_Halverson]

If you save the linen backing part of the build until AFTER you have radiused the edges, you get a little more protection from lifting splinters on the corners.

Nice looking shooter you got there, Frode!

[Frode]

Thank you, JW!  I hadn't thought of putting it on afterwards.  That would be easier, too!  Less treating and re-treating the fuzzy edge of the linen.
Frode

[JW_Halverson]

When you get the initial fuzzies from sanding, wet your finger with glue and lay 'em all down flat again.  Let it dry and sand again lightly.  Usually fixes their little red wagons.

[Frode]

Thanks!  Will do!

[RyanY]

Not sure about the grain but one thing you may need to consider is overbuilding your bows a little. Your design only leaves 1 1/32" wide at mid limb which isn't a whole lot for red oak. You have length on your side but if your previous working bows are low set and lighter than expected than you probably need to design with more width.

[bubby]

2" wide at the fades is better on red oak, but you aren't trying for that high a weight, I don't really like overbuilding bows anymore, just messes with performance