starting my first bow just one more pice of info needed

[yebon]

I am moving forward on my first bow.  It is going to be a red oak hickory backed bow.  I am using George Tsoukalas' build along as a guide.  I do however need a guide on backing the bow.  I am very new and am completely ignorant on how to make and back bows.  If there is a hickory backing how to on the forum i have not seen it.  Any advise is welcome and i hope to start the project this weekend.   

[skarhand]

I don't have a build along exactly, but I did glue an ash backing on to an ipe board over the weekend. I just cut my backing 1/8 wider and longer they my board was. then I put a thin "sizing" coat of TB3 on both the ash and ipe. I let that set for about 15 minutes (apparently this allows the wood to soak up some of the glue so when you squeeze a lot of the glue out when you clamp it, the last little bit doesn't get soaked up by the wood and leave you with a weak joint)

After the 15 min was up...actually about 13 minutes because I am impatient (I know a bad quality in bow making, but I'm still young. ) I added more glue to both sides to make sure there were not any dry spots when I put them together. Then I clamped the center in my vice loosely so I could get them oriented together as they are very slippery. Once the backing was positioned where I wanted it, I tightened down my vice, tight but not cheater bar tight, you don't want it to move around, but you also don't want to squeeze all the glue out. from this point you can proceed with your preferred method of clamping. Some people prefer to wrap it with bike tubes (I will probably do this once I get some tubes) others clamp the fire out of it with the squeezie type clamps and or c-clamps. If not going the Inner tube route my guess is the squeezie type (like big rubber tipped metal clothspins) clamps are better so you get a semi uniform pressure. With C-clamos I could see having one too tight, one too loose, and get some wierd stress patterns. Plus with the rubber on the squeezers you don't have to worry about marring the wood.

I didn't have enough of any type of clamp to do that or inner tubes, so I improvised by clamping it between a straight 5/4 oak board and some 3/4 inch oak T&G flooring. It seems to have worked well, but we will find out when I start tillering tonight, LOL.

Anyway, once the glue dries up you can trim off any glue drips and excess backing with a file/rasp/belt sander.

Oh, a great tip to use during the glue up...do NOT sweep your floor before you glue. The sawdust layer catches the glue that drips on the floor preventing it from sticking to the concrete or whatever your floor is. Plus it is a GREAT excuse when you wife looks and asks why there is such a big mess. 

[bushboy]

I would suggest titebond 3 for glue.your surfaces must match almost prefect.hickory is Very tension strong so you want your backing strip very thin.the only problem with this is if it's to thin it will want to buckle at the edges because the moisture in the glue.I only use rift or quarter sawn lumber for backing and glue it up at a fat 1/8" and thin it later with a belt sander.this may not be an issue with and epoxy,but I don't like that stinky messy stuff! I use a combo of long 1" rubber strip and clothesline type clamps and bar clamps.make your board blank extra wide so it can be trimmed on the sides incase of a bad glue line.do a mock up of the glue up to make sure you are prepared.I trace the strip fattly ,cut it out and mark on the strip and belly as to it's oreintation.make sure that both surfaces are very clean.I like to ruff the surfaces a little with a brass wire wheel in a drill.I use a 6' metal channel in a vise as a base.then place a piece of 2x4 (wrapped in wax paper ) in the middle on edge and one at either end to glue it with no reflex or cut at different lenghts if you chose to introduce a bit of reflex,but with an oak belly I wouldn't rec too much.by placing the core back side up on the 2x4 this will allow room for your clamps and wrapping it with the rubber.when ready I coat both sides liberally and tap then on a table to release the air bubbles,smooth out with a stick if needed.then I mait the surfaces and clamp lightly. In the middle with a bar style and at both ends to lock it in place.then wrap the rubber from the middle to the tips and back again to keep the pressure equal.don't over do it cause it will squesse all the glue out.then I put a clothesline style clamp any where I can fit one on apposing sides.lastly I squease all along the joint lightly to make sure there is equal pressure and no glue will squease out because of not enough pressure.a bit llong winded but I hope this helps.p.s let the glue dry for at least 4 or 5 days before flexing.