White oak and heat tempering?

[TimPotter]

I'm nearly done floor tillering a 66"l pyramid flatbow out of white oak. And a my lunch was heating I decided to research the wood in TBB4 because that has Mark's excellent chapter on heat-treating. But 1st I read Tim Baker's judgment on it. He states that though it is nigh unbreakable that it will also take excessive set, UP TO 7" of set. Well fine I thought, then on to Mark St-Louis'  chapter on heat-treating and I feel I'm on the right track towards avoiding horrible string follow. Regardless I'm about to head out and get-r-done. Just wanted to know if any of you out there have had success with this wood??

[Bryce]

White oak will take alot of set. Add heat and it will take a little less set. But you get set nonetheless

[Josh B]

We don't have whiteoak exactly here in my part of the country.  We have bur oak which is a type of white oak I guess.  Ive made several from bur oak and with heat treating made excellent bows.  Ive made several white oak board bows and didn't heat treat any of them. I didn't have any of the reported excessive set problems with them.  The drier climate is more than likely helping in that regard.  I don't know if any of this is what your asking for, but that's my .02.  Josh

[Bryce]

I'm gettin at least 1.5" set over here in the rainforest

[Josh B]

How's hickory and red oak do out there Bryce?  Bout the same?  I had a older gent at mojam tell me that board bows, regardless of species are worthless because they draw moisture like a sponge.  I asked him where he was from he simply said southeast.  I don't know if that meant the MO bootheel or Florida.  I said that I was from KS and started to explain the drier climate.  He cut me off and told me," KS huh,  I always heard you were slow out that way!"  Then he walked off.  Lol!  Despite his obviously strong held opinion, I do think it makes a big difference.  That's why I'm asking.  Josh

[Bryce]

I wish I could help yah out josh but I've never made a bow from a board :/

The only hickory bow that's ever left my shop was made by graham and I think it had about 2" of set. When we started on the stave, the mc was at 5%. But that could have changed in the time it took us to complete the bow.

[Josh B]

I didn't mean to insinuate that you were closet board bowyer! lol!  I just thought you might of noticed a few of those species bows (board or stave)  at the range or at a gathering maybe.  I travel through most regions in this country,  but I'm very seldom there long enough for the local RH to have much affect on my bows.   I can see where it would have the effect, but I mostly have to go on other people's experiences for the different regions.  Josh

[doulosparachristos]

My experience ( as little as it is ) is that White Oak will take some set, however, after heat treating its nearly nothing; I have yet to see a bow take 7 inches of set and would argue that it is design/bowyer failure rather than wood species. Because of White Oaks durability and availability in my region it is probably my favorite:)
Roy

[Peacebow_Coos]

I have made two out of White Oak, a mollie and a flat bow, the mollie 45@28 and the flat bow 39@28, I heat treated/induced reflex on both, and they still ended up with some set.  1.5" on the mollie and <1" on the flat bow.  The mollie is obviously way more stressed, and I'm not the most perfect tiller-er so who knows, but they still shot pretty well!  I also charred them pretty dark, scraped/tillered, then re-heated.

[rossfactor]

White oak bows I have made have taken over 1" of set.  I think it is a great wood for heat treating and responds well to dry heat for bending.

I think its also a good candidate for trapping the back. Heat treat the belly and trap the back, (and of course a perfect tiller  ) and you will reduce the severity of set.

Gabe

[bubby]

well if ya want the opinion of a PROUD board bow builder the white oak boards I've built either self bows or used for backing have taken very little set, if I remember right I had one take an inch and a quarter, and it does take to heat great, bub

[TimPotter]

Thanks everyone for your input.
1st off this is not a board it was a hands width tree about 4 months ago. I split it and hacked it down close to bow profile and let it dry indoors. Then today worked it into a pleasant floor tiller.
2nd. I'm no sort of major reflex junkie. I actually don't mind 1.5" of string follow. I was just curious how others have done with this wood.
3rd. I live in medium to high humidity. 63% at the moment. But I have several flat white wood bows that have lasted years with hardly any string follow and some with 2" just unbraced reflex (elm). I'm really hoping this one turns out nice.
Again Thank you everyone.

[H Rhodes]

I have had good luck with white oak.  Never done a board bow from white oak.  I have made a couple that came in without string follow, but I am like you in that I don't mind an inch or two, if the early string tension is there and it shoots good.  It bends in to recurves wonderfully -  easier than hickory.  I have had my best luck by getting it to low brace and then giving the belly a good toasting.   My best whitewood bows so far have been from white oak.  I am in south alabama where it's warm and humid.  I don't have anything bad to say about white oak, except it isn't yellow.....