First batch of stone tipped hunting arrows

[half eye]

You mentioned what I think is the only real problem with stone. After you have shot the arrows several times at ANY target you will be well served to "micro flake" to resharpen them. At least the 1/3 of the cutting edge from point back. A heavy weight bow will put them clean through a deer even if they are slightly dull, but for bows in the 40 to 50 range a resharpening will not hurt.

Just one old mans way, and I cant say about obsidian but all my hunting heads are flint/chert and they get resharpened. Remember that if you "feel" the edge you are not really feeling the sharp part, which is down in the valley formed by the concoidal fracturing.

Your arrows look very good by the way, hope you get the chance to fling them at a deer.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Those finished nicely!

[Buckeye Guy]

Clint
Nice arrows !!
I try out mine by putting a 2" thick piece of blue foam board about a foot in front of my reg target , it stops it from penetrating into target much and has little effect on points !
I shoot them one at a time so no way they can hit each other
Once you get them tuned up put them away and only use one or two for practice !
Put leather covers on each one that you are satisfied with for hunting  to further protect them !
That is the way I do it , take it or leave it !
One thing I will mention here is the thickness of the points  many folks are making very thin points these days and the thinner the point the deeper it will need hafted for proper spine on the point , we don't want them breaking on impact  !
Yours appear to be decent , but I cant tell how thick they are other than judging off the shafting that I don't know how thick is
Hunting equipment is something I am very cautious with I don't want anymore chance for messing up than I have to !
Well anyway good job !

[half eye]

O2,
      Buckeye Guy give the straight skinny on the thickness deal. I forgot to say that another important feature is having the very tip real "pointy" so the initial contact cuts the opening in the skin. Next biggest thing is the head being well "ridged" meaning their flat sides are thick to the point and taper away to the cutting edge.
     I took some pictures of some of my hunting points/arrows maybe they will help with questions if you have any...
rich

[Danzn Bar]

Clint,
You did a nice job on them.  I've always wondered the same thing about shooting them.
DBar

[osage outlaw]

Thanks for all the compliments and advice.   Tracy and Bubby made such fine points that I almost didn't want to use them.  If I miss and break one I'm going to be upset.  Thanks again guys. 

Guy and Half eye, I tried putting the points as deep in the arrow shaft as I could.  I kept notching it out until the point was about the same thickness as the end of the shaft.  The pitch is covering the ends of the arrow a little.   I planned on making leather covers for them.  I use those on my trade points.   

[JW_Halverson]

Too pretty to shoot!  Too deadly not to shoot!

[TRACY]

"Thanks for all the compliments and advice.   Tracy and Bubby made such fine points that I almost didn't want to use them.  If I miss and break one I'm going to be upset.  Thanks again guys.  "

Shoot them, I need more pit time Clint 

Rich, I like your arrows! Did you run pitch up over the sinew wrap or is it something else?

Tracy

[half eye]

Tracy,
    yes it's pitch, after setting the point and applying the sinew and letting that dry, I rewarm the head and pitch and smooth it allover the sinew. I use a small piece of flat tin that also gets warmed. The native Americans used a clam shell like a sewing thimble to do that job. I only do it because of the high humidity here.
rich

[TRACY]

Thank you for the info Rich! I really like the looks of them.


Tracy