Red elm bow

[sleek]

This is a red elm bow from a stave that was gifted to me and so, in turn, is being gifted away. Goal was 40#@28" but darnit I missed weight by 2 pounds. I have already heat treated it, and its I dont want any more extreme a string angle, so it stays 38@28. I think I can cheat a bit by adding tip overlays that will act as small recurves to maybe add a pound or two ( crossing fingers ). Bow is 61 inches ntn and 2 inches wide out the fades, pyramid profile. Plan is after 100 shots, I have a sweet snake skin to back it, with tip overlays carved into rattles  . I do have one question though, which limb should be the weaker, upper or lower? The tiller between the limbs is 1/2 inch off.  I have 2 inches of just unstrung set... I think this wood is maxed out.





Looks like the lower limb could use a heat treat to stiffen the mid inner third perhaps....

[Hrothgar]

Being a shorter, flatbow --as opposed to an ELB--the limb lengths should equal. Its usually a good idea to have the bottom limb stronger. In the braced position it appears the lower limb is bending more, but that might be the camera angle. The tiller looks pretty good and since you've already heat treated it, it might be 'maxed out'. Tip over lays shouldn't hurt anything.