I had read those already.
I was kind of shocked that the one was left for fluting until that late stage, and was then going to need such a heavy flake removed for fluting to work at all. Heavy pocketed edge flakes as guides?
The nipple looks to be very similar to the ones on recovered Clovis artifacts, but the pronounced ridge changes the entire dynamic it would seem.
When I have attempted to do those kinds of direct strikes, a lot of the time they dive at the end. I actually produced a piece that looks like the one in Bob's thread, only the divot at the end, was from the flake diving, not from something later.
Part of my problem on learning this stuff, is that in the raw Burlington, I don't have control at that force level yet. My heat treat makes it look different, but doesn't much change the working properties, and so far, I prefer hitting the raw.
My goal, was to learn how to make tools, using available resources, the way someone in that time period would be forced to do, if abandoned on their own, or lost their kit. I have reached that. It simply isn't that hard if there is Burlington lying all over the place like here. Now, I want to get fancy.
That is what prompted the question.
I am working spikes and bevels out of chips right now, and the spikes make me want to flute them for hafting, without losing the strength of the spike type tip. I don't want flat flutes. I want the blade to remain heavier in the center and narrow. I want pretty much an overshot flake that runs lengthwise.
Still not sure on the bevels if you are supposed to come to a needle tip, or of you are supposed to create the chisel type tip the bevels encourage. Getting the chisel type correct on small points, is almost impossible for me so far.
