Like Mike says... you're
aiming for less that 2".
But my point is don't beat yourself up about it, there are reasons for these things and that's part of the fun and skill which we are all still learning.
An
interesting little story if you'll bear with me..
Are you sitting cofortably? Then I'll begin.
A friend of mine went to see a well known exponent of Italian Yew warbows (Mr X) for a discussion about shooting heavy weight bows, he took with him a bow I'd made(about 85-90# at 32") which MrX looked at, he opined thusly.
Victorian... Nice back... Don't like the splice.
Now the point here is, he didn't know the whys and wherefores of the bow.
It was Victorian in shape and tiller because the two Oregon Yew billets weren't fat enough for anything else, and they were so narrow the splice was also slighty scruffy on the edges.
Yes, the back was perfect 'cos it was a continuous slice from an English Yew log which had excess sapwood and I'd left the underbark surface in it's virgin state.
Interestingly MrX sold my friend a 105# Italian Yew bow as a trainer bow to help him build up to something bigger. To be fair it was sold as a 'second' ... the belly had countless knots which had developed nasty pinches because they hadn't been filled and it has taken a good bit of set.
Now by the same token as my bow had reasons for it's short commings , this bow doubtless did to, and it was sold cheap as a second so it's unfair of me to be over critical. However it had previously been sold as a 'first' and returned.
So what's my point/points?
Each bow is different. You can only work the wood you have. Even the 'experts' can produce a wrong un.
We all live and learn.
Del
(BTW, My bow out shoots the Italian Yew easy peasy
)
