Two more red oak pyramid bows

[Twokag]

I am going to start on two more bows (#'s 3 and 4) and have a couple of questions.  I have two boards 2.5x72" with pretty good grain running the length, and the growth rings have the thicker bands I have read are better.  They will be for my wife and younger daughter.  I plan to make one of them 66 tip to tip, and one of them 72 ttt.  My goal weight for them will be 35-40#.  I want them fast enough to shoot, but not too strong for them since they will be exclusively for backyard fun.

I am keeping them long enough to give me room for error since I am still getting the feel for making bows.  Any concern with the lengths?

I have read about the layout on pyramid bows being best if it goes to a point from the fades, and then having the last 4-6" parallel to give the tips some strength.  Is there any real advantage to that compared to just drawing from fades to 3/8" tips?  I plan to use a tillering gizmo - I don't know if it has a real name - to get a circular tiller.  I don't expect it to give good tiller just because it goes to a point.  Since I am tillering anyway, does it make much difference?

I know pyramids bows are simple and a good starting point, and maybe I am over thinking it, but I would like to have the best chance at having them work and not blowing up a lot as I learn if it can be avoided.

[bubby]

you can use this as your layout guide, then tiller down to weight, ya don't have to use a tablesaw but layout will work, eiffell tower taper is a different beast than a straight pyramid taper , I fthink that a straight taper from fade to tip makes a hi performing long lasting bow that will give good cast and speedhttp://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html

[Twokag]

Thanks Bubby. I was thinking that keeping straight lines on the edges is much easier, but I read a thread that went into some detail about a true triangle spreading stress more evenly.  Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something.

I will use a band saw (leaving lots of margin) and a table belt sander to get it to the straight lines, then hand work.

One other question - Is there any advantage to doing a tip overlay other than just decorative? Is there a problem with oak pyramid bows having problems with the tips?

Pictures when I get some work done to them.

[Carson (CMB)]

As for the overlay question.  I like to use horn overly on any bow that will use a fast flight string.  It is not absolutely necessary, but it is cheap insurance.  If you are using B-50 or other string material, then self nocks work just fine. 

[bubby]

Carson beat me to it, the only other is I sometimes use a 6" long pc and an overlay to get a slight reflex

[Twokag]

How narrow is safe for the handle?  I will leave it most of the thickness belly to back, about 1.5",but how narrow is safe side to side? I want to make it small enough to be comfortable for the lady shooters with smaller hands, but not too small to cause breakage risk.  4" handle, 2" fade each side.  Like the link Bubby posted.

[bubby]

narrow it to 1" at the top and bottom of the grip and a little wider at the center of the grip, then just shape it till it feels good