Black locust d bow help?

[BOWMAN53]

I just started working a black locust stave with the same exact specs . Ill keep an eye on this post.

[DLH]

Here is where I'm at now have all them sanded down but I'm afraid I have sanded them too much? I hope I haven't but if so I know what not to do now I still need to sand the back some more and get some final tool marks out. So do you think the pin knots look doomed?























Chris do you mean something like this except for get the sinew into smaller pieces and prepare the wood for gluing? Also what should I use for glue I have read of people using hide glue  (the best?) but some have used TB3 as well? Sorry for all the questions and pictures everyone just want to be thorough.



Bowman  I like your locust bow you posted that was quick has taken me forever to just get the back pristine.

[BOWMAN53]

Thanks, hopefully yours doesnt get compression fractures like mine did, too heavy for a bow that narrow. Oh well on to the next one. Good luck 

[DuBois]

Great thread and cool looking stave your workin. Hope you get a great bow from it. Thanks for the lessons 

[blackhawk]

Yup...that's exactly what I mean...use titebondIII for wraps n such,and use hide glue if you actually are gonna sinew back a bow tho for future reference....just shred that sinew down a lil finer and let it set in warm water till there good and noodley ,then pick the bundle out and squeeze out as much excess water as ya can with your fingers,then dip and saturate them in some titebond,squeeze out the extra glue,and lay them down...easy peasy 

[TRACY]

The back looks good Daniel. Shaping up just fine!

Tracy

[DLH]

Alright thanks guys that makes me feel better. I guess my next step will get some of the belly meat off next. Should I add the sinew once I    get it floor tillered? I also will post a picture of the twist once I get some straws from wendys.

Thanks,

Daniel

[blackhawk]

If your gonna have to do any heat corrections then get it good n floor tillered first and make the heat corrections before you put that sinew patch along the side..

[DLH]

First off I'll show what I did step by step to see if I did it right? This is how one of the members on here told me to do it he don't post much but has made a few bows

First I marked my center line.



Then I marked my 4in handle 2in on each side of my center line.



Next I marked my fades which go 1 1/2in past the handle.



Now the part I'm not 100% sure about. I measured my handle 3/4in thick. Then tapered from the end of the handle to the end of the fade to 1/2in does that sound right? I didn't draw it curved was going to leave it heavy and shape that more with a rasp. From the half inch at the fade I did a facet taper to 3/8in at the tips or atleast I think I did would like an explanation of that if you don't mind?

[DLH]

Next I am going to show you guys the picture of how much twist it has. How many degrees would you consider this? Does it need heat correcting to get the twist out or should it be left?





Here is another problem I ran into reducing the belly thickness. Remember that pin hole I had on the back Chris well this is what I found on the belly side what do y'all think?



This one is just for fun I think I am going to have to rasp it I couldn't budge it with my draw knife even pulled my handle off a few times. Should I rasp it or take my panties off and put my boxers on n drawknife it?



Thanks,

Daniel

[osage outlaw]

Is that a knot you are tryin to remove in that last picture?  If I have something like that on osage I'll work it just like you did and then I'll put a hatchet up to it and smack it with a hammer.  It usually pops right off.  Jut be careful to not go down to many rings if it tears out. 

Your bow is looking good so far.  What happened to the one you were working on at Dave's?

[hedgeapple]

I would remove that much twist with heat and weighted pipe wrench.

[DLH]

Alright sounds good guys I will work on it some more and get back with you guys. Clint I had my rasps sharpend that were given to me I am waiting on them to get back and then I am going to work on finishing the one I had at Dave's. This is just to pass the time until they arrive I want to see where the one other one leads me before trying to finish this one. I will prolly get the belly meat work off this one and put it down for awhile and switch to the other bow.

Thanks,

Daniel

[TRACY]

Hatchet will work for that snarl. Heat is probably easier to access, but I just finished straightening a black locust stave with heat and would have steamed it for the sake of time. I had to heat and clamp several times to get rid of the twist from end to end. With steam, I could have gotten it all done with one clamping session. Use what is easiest and accessible to you Daniel. Looks like you're doing a great job taking your time and being thorough!


Tracy

[SLIMBOB]

As a rule, I just ignore prop twist.  Looks to me that each limb twists to the same degree opposite one another, so it should cause you no problems IMO.  You may find that some of it straightens out as you begin to shoot it.  Heat bending the wood to straighten it comes with some risk, very doable, but just not worth the effort or risk in my book.  Been following your post.  Nice job thus far.