ipe board suggestions?

[bubby]

at the start of this post you said you wanted a 32" draw so you might as well go with an ELB, i'd check out the warbow page or del's blog

YES! i totally agree

 72''ntn 4" handle section. 2.5" long fades 1.25" at the end of the fades.  then taper to .5" durable, easy to tiller bow.
best results IMHO

yep

[ionicmuffin]

what kind of weight would i end up with?

[bubby]

you could get a draw weight that you prolly cant draw , you could easy get 70#, how heavy does it need to be

[ionicmuffin]

not more than 60#@ 30ish.

[ionicmuffin]

Ok, so i have my bamboo to close to an 1/8 thickness and the ipe is very close to 1/2 inch. Only thing i need to do is glue up after getting the bamboo to even thickness. The guy who helped me get the thickness thought it was so thin already that he didn't want to try to take anymore off. But hes been very helpful because hes got a huge belt sander and a big bandsaw, made everything easier lol. Ill show pics sometime today. I plan on glue up today. My only concern is this. The bandsaw left marks on the ipe. We did a lot of sanding to get it to a nice almost smooth surface, but there are a few points where the sawblade made the marks that are still there, i would imagine this wont be an issue if i use epoxy right? if most of the surface is flat would tb2 or 3 work or would those tiny "gaps" effect the glue up?

[DarkSoul]

What marks did the bandsaw leave? Burn marks, grooves, holes...?
Titebond glues do NOT tolerate gaps. A gap will always be just that - a gap. Even if you fill it with epoxy it will not be as strong as the wood, but epoxies are more forgiving than titebond.

[ionicmuffin]

its the kind that's like a very small bump, it is a gap and so i did buy some epoxy, i figured that JB woodweld would work fine so i picked up some of that.