How to section Osage quarter splits into stave size splits?

[Sidewinder]

So the question is in the title of the topic. How is the best , most efficient way to maximize these splits? can we band saw the 2" sections or do we kerf the ends in 2" incrimants and then split them length wise?

[Pappy]

I split them,but I don't get that greedy,I usuall go more than 2 inches just to be safe.Depending on how clean the wood is.If it isn't real clean with knots and twist I will go 5/6 inches ,if it is real clean and fairly straight I will go about 3 inches.Also if it is thick enough I always try for a belly
split.I will go down about 3/4 inches from the back and split off the belly.If you can do that it makes it easier to split out the top starves,it will help them split better.
   Pappy

[Sidewinder]

Just the man I hoped would chime in, I have seen your character bows on here and read your posts so you know what your talking about. The grain is exceptionally straight until you get down about four inches into the middle/bottom of the quarter split and then it has about 2" of drift in the grain. I came up with 2" because I haven't seen anybody makes Osage bow wider than 1-1/2" so I figured that would be safe I may go 2-1/2" just to be safe and to maximize the number of bows that can be made with this straight grained, fat ringed beauty. Yeah, I was hoping to get some center splits out of each quarter as well. Question? How do you recommend to start the split on the center section? and do you think that it will hurt it to band saw out the top level of staves on the quarter if there is no grain violation throughout the depth of the stave?

[Pat B]

I usually start a split in the center of the stave by driving an ax into the back and working out to each end with wedges. This seems to follow the grain better for me. For belly splits I drive an ax into the end grain, at the ring I want it to split on and usually it will follow that ring or close to it.    Pat

[Pappy]

What Pat said,and no it won't hurt as long as you don't violate the length grain or leave enough on either side to lay out the bow.If it is clean and straight it will usually not give much problem splitting straight.The problem is if it isn't pretty big the wedge shape it takes when you split it,be sure that when you take it down a ring or2 and get the sap wood off it is still wide enough.It gets narrower as you take the top off so when you get it down to where you want it you will loose some of the with that you started with.
   Pappy

[Sidewinder]

So from what I am hearing from you guys is, its gonna be safer if I split those sections out just to insure that there are no un due grain violations, correct? And..if they are a little larger than needed that will just be a bonus for whomever ends up getting them.Just trying to maximize some excellent wood. I wish I knew how to get the pics my partner posted on paleoplanet onto this site so you guys could see them. If you do go there and look its in the bow section under self bows titled "Hunting the osage tree". This tree was about 25-30yrs old had an 18" base and went about 17ft before it began to branch out, a real beauty.

[Pappy]

Yes I would split it,sound like a real haul. If it is that clean it should split fairly straight.
   Pappy