D Bow requirments

[Mikeeeeeeeeee]

Starting over after my first bow failed because of a knot.
I want to keep it simple and just make a D bow.
What are my goals?
What are some basic measurements?
Understand that I want 45# or less. I normally shoot a 35# Martin Jaguar. It kills deer, and I have no need for big draw weights.
Any advice is appreciated.

[Mikeeeeeeeeee]

Side note> My first bow that broke was a pyramid type and I had put a lot of work into the handle section. I think that I should concentrate more on the limbs and such untill my skills are honed. That is why I think a d bow would be best.

[Joec123able]

For any D bows I've made I make the widest part of the bow,the handle, about 1 1/2 inch wide downt to 1/2 inch tips and I wouldn't go much shorter than 56 inchs long depending on draw length

[bushboy]

Start with some compression strong wood like osage,yew or elm .generally the handle is the widest,parallel down to the last 12" then down to 3/8.

[Mikeeeeeeeeee]

I have hickory. I have two staves that are almost dry enough.

[Mikeeeeeeeeee]

I have a 29" draw length.

[Joec123able]

Ok well hickory will work fine and with a 29 inch inch draw I'd make it aoround 60 inchs tip to tip 58 inchs nock to nock

[WillS]

In all honesty, I'd avoid D-bows until you are able to comfortably get a pyramid bow made.  They're easier to tiller, and somewhat more forgiving.  A D-bow requires wood that seems to be more expensive (unless youre cutting and splitting/seasoning yourself) such as yew, so working on those when you've not got a pyramid cracked is risky. 

[osage outlaw]

I disagree with you WillS.  A D-bow is as simple design as there is.  No fades, just a nice even bend from tip to tip.  And many types of wood will make a good D-bow.

Make sure your hickory is very dry.  I like to narrow the handle area on my D-bows I leave it a little thicker than the limbs. 

[bushboy]

For a beginner I would go no shorter than 64"ntn.even a bit longer wouldn't hurt and trap back if using hickory.

[Joec123able]

I disagree with you WillS.  A D-bow is as simple design as there is.  No fades, just a nice even bend from tip to tip.  And many types of wood will make a good D-bow.

Make sure your hickory is very dry.  I like to narrow the handle area on my D-bows I leave it a little thicker than the limbs.

Agreed !

[Dictionary]

Lots of Good advice here.

I have seen that argument before WillS and it just doesnt make much sense to me. D bows are simple and durable which is why they are/were used around the world. All woods lead themselves to a D tiller, not just yew. +1 to osage outlaw


For your 29 in draw and your lack of experience, id say go a bit longer. You can always pike it down if it comes too under weight.

A 58 in ntn bow is a pleasure to carry and shoot but it would be easier for you to make one that is about 64 in ntn or so as Bushboy says. Get the limbs bending evenly to about 23+ inches, then get the center flexing a bit, then move back to the limbs. I dont take measurements. Everything is by eye and feel.Typically the handle is between 1 1/4- 1 1 1/2 or so and depending on how you make them, the tips taper considerably or not much at all. It will come together.


Also, i have found leaving the handle the widest and not narrowing it, is much easier to tiller although having a slightly narrowed handle that bends is a pleasure to shoot as well. Your choice.

[H Rhodes]

I would start with a 66" length.  D bows are my favorites.  I hunted with a 65" long white oak bow this past season and found it a pleasure to carry.  Your first selfbow will make that FG recurve feel like a boat anchor.  Good luck and show us some pictures of her when you get it started. 

[WillS]

I take it back then!   

I've always had issues getting stable d-bows out of anything except yew, but I'm certain that's my inexperience showing.  I've given up on using anything except yew for them, as no matter what I try, the belly chrysals.  Yew seems to let me get away with anything, but it's so hard to find in the UK that I stick to what I know with it, and use flatter, squarer cross-section designs for everything else.

Best of luck to the OP, I'll be watching with interest!

[Mikeeeeeeeeee]

I have a 72"long, 6" diameter log waiting to be split. It has been drying with the bark on for about 2 months. I'm gonna split it in a week or so, but I have a stave that is about 2" wide that is almost dry and calling my name.
Thanks guys!