52" red elm bow

[bobbykelley]

I have a red elm that I have been working and had to steam it. It had a little twist in one limb and needed the tips lined up. I also put about 3" of reflex in it. I have it bending some on floor tiller but what I was wondering is should I get it bending more before I add sinew to it. I was thinking of 2 layers of sinew. Oh and the bow is 1 7/8" wide at fades down to 1/2" tips. It still has 1/4" sap wood and a little under 1/2" heart wood. Thanks for any advice.

[Dictionary]

where are the pictures!?

[bobbykelley]

Sorry ar work. I'll try and get some tonight.

[blackhawk]

What are your specific intents with this piece of wood? Why does it need sinew? And yeah pics will help....

[Pat B]

If I'm building a sinew backed bowI like to get the limbs bending evenly and together before adding the sinew. If I put the sinew down fairly evenly on both limbs I usually don't have much adjustment to do to make up for adding the sinew.
 On a few of the sinew bows I have built I totally tillered the bow to about the ultimate draw weight I'm looking for before adding the sinew then when the sinew has cured all I have to do is a little weight reduction and some minor adjustment  before the bow is finished.

[bobbykelley]

Blackhawk, I would like to be in the 45# to 55# range with a 26" draw not sure I can get that but i'll try. As for the sinew I don't know besides helping me reach that draw with a 52" bow. If it's not needed then thats ok. Thats why I come here and ask. 1st time applying sinew. Shortest bow so far.

Pat b, thank you I will work it some more and get it as close as I can before I add. Once I do then I'll post and see if I still need to add sinew.

[Pat B]

For a 52" bow drawing 26", I would add the sinew backing. It is possible to do without sinew but you would be pushing the stave and your skill level without it.

[blackhawk]

I agree with pat.....BUT...have you made a well tillered bow yet bobby? If you haven't then sinew ain't gonna save ya and would be a waste of time IMHO...if you haven't learned the basics of design and tillering yet then id set this project aside until you got some of the basics down and can hit weight with an acceptable tiller

[bobbykelley]

This would be my 7th bow so far. 3 of which broke on me from a flaw that I did. 1 from me trying to bend the tips with heat after I was shooting it. That one was me trying something out. 5 of the 7 have been red oak as I don't want to waste a good staff again. The reason for the post wasn't to see if sinew would make up for my bad skills it was to get advice so that I wouldn't waste wood or sinew. I know I'm new and this a short staff but it was something I wanted to give a shot at. Thank you for your time and advice.

[blackhawk]

I'm just one mans opinion and certainly no expert...but it sounds like to me you would be better off setting this one aside for now and first learn how to make a bow without fudging up...it wood be no fun putting all the sinewing time into it and mess it up....2 out of 7 just doesn't sound like your quite ready for a short sinew backed bow IMHO. Just my two cents n somebody may disagree with me.

[bobbykelley]

I learned something today about steam bending and formw today. I took the bow off my form too soon. I found that out when I got home. I was reading over bending wood in tbb 2 at my sons soccer practice and thought to myself I made a mistake. I lost most of the bend in my bow. I'll have to steam it again and this time leave it on the form for a week or two.
Also I learned on another bow (I was heat treating) and the heat reflected back up on the edge of the bow and scorched the edge a little. Not sure if its too bad to fix. But I'm learning.