Author Topic: Arrows needed  (Read 4030 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline webrx

  • Member
  • Posts: 47
Re: Arrows needed
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2013, 09:44:16 pm »
Sorry for the delay, but I do appreciate the help.

Weighed the bow (bathroom scale method) bow comes in at 37@28" nocks are 68" apart, my draw is 26.5" so most likely 31-32# at my draw.

Have been working hard with the arrows I have.

Gold tip lightnings, rated for "up to 35#" bow, 27.5" long, carbon arrow with plastic vanes, can get them to group somewhat, about the size of a pie plate at 10 yards.  Can get them on the target but sporadic on position, sometimes in the center, sometimes low, sometimes high.  if I release perfectly, no plucking, etc, they will hit the middle, but it has to be perfect and best group was 4 arrows, at 4 inches widest point to widest point from 10 yards - did this only twice, but did do it.  These arrows porpoise a bit, adjust the nocking point from where it hits my hand on release (way low) to about half an inch above the top of the nock when the arrow is level, at this point my accuracy was way out there.

Easton 1816 Lite - Jazz arrows - 28" long aluminium with plastic vanes - Can get them on the target but very sporadic on position, sometimes in the center, sometimes low, sometimes high.  if I release perfectly, no plucking, etc, they will sometimes hit the middle. These arrows porpoise a lot. again adjusted nocking point a ton, up and down 7 turns from where they seem to shoot best, could not stop the porpoising.

Easton 2216 Lites, 32" long, 125 grain tips, aluminum, 5" feather flights, these still group the best, maybe because they are longer and heavier, I dont know, but I can hear them hit the arrow shelf when released, but they fly pretty straight, not a lot of porpoising or fishtailing, well, maybe a little fishtailing, nocks tend to end slanted to the left at 8 yards.  I am positive they are too stiff for the bow, but, they are the most consistent of the groups so far, I can put them in the center of the target most consistently, lots of noise though, and had to raise up my brace height to keep the flights from touching the arrow rest at brace height.

Funny I was figuring my form was all messed up and inconsistent until I shot the heavy arrows, I put 6 in a row inside the pie plate circle, two at a time.  So while my form may be messed up, I must have been doing something right.

Gonna try to shoot the wood arrows later, it got real windy out and my son kind of took ownership of them for his pse snake, they shoot pretty straight for him in that bow, though it is only a 23# but it is center cut, or close to it.  He shoots them pretty good when he tries.  the nocks on these are a bit tight on my bow, but they fit his bow pretty good, did not want to sand them down cuz he likes them, I do have one that I can shoot though that is currently loose on his serving, was gonna tighten it up (hot water trick) but will shoot it first.

So, back to my dilemna, cash is not abundent, though I can probably swing another set of arrows come payday, but I can't keep buying different arrows for this selfbow, I'm gonna have to figure something out quick or just make it a wall hanger.

A little about me, pretty athletic most my life, still in good shape for 54, like to fly fish, float tube, play golf (10 handicap), etc.  Good hand eye coordination.  have not shot archery since I was a teenager, just getting back into it, so, willing to admit my form is probably no where near good.

Good news is, just had my 54th birthday, and my lovely wife ordered me a 50# Samick Sage recurve, I have arrows for my compound, Eastons, aluminum, rated for 50-55# so I think I may have arrows I can use in the sage already.

Thanks in advance for any further advice or help.

Dave

One last edit, just shot the wood arrows, rated for 40# bow per the sales guy, feather flights, 30" shaft, was able to get them on target, no porpoising, but a little up and to the left shaft alignment when on target.  Moving back a couple yards and extending my draw to 28 (back of my jawline) the shafts go in fairly straight.  Had to raise the nocking point 2 turns, to get height correct, but I might have found a winner,  Gonna have to get a few more so I don't have to fight with my boy.

Dave
« Last Edit: March 14, 2013, 10:56:09 pm by webrx »
Experience - that thing you get just moments after you needed it.