Author Topic: Speed Drying Osage  (Read 3984 times)

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Offline Orangeman89

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Speed Drying Osage
« on: January 30, 2013, 12:13:06 pm »
Ok fella's, here is my dilema:  I have no seasoned osage.  I do have plenty of osage that I cut in December and January, and so I have been trying to speed dry a few staves and would like some opinions on how to safely get this done.  I will explain what I have done so far and then I kindly ask for you advise.  When I cut the wood, I split it into staves and then worked the bark and sapwood off enough to get a look at the linear grain.  I then layed out a three inch wide section down the length and cut that out.  Then I reduced the depth of the stave to about 1 3/4 inches.  I then shellaced the back and ends and let the wood sit for about a week in my basement, which is warm and dry.  After a week, I re-cut the stave into a two inch stave and then worked the back down to one ring above the ring I want to use.  I then marked out the handle and fadeout section and reduced the depth of the limbs down to 7/8 of an inch.  I left the handle area at one and a half inches deep and worked the fadeouts.  Then I re-shallacked.  I let the staves sit a few days and then put them in a steam tube for two hours and then on a reflexed form.  After coming off the form, I let them sit a few more days and then layed out the bows and cut them out.  I now have two staves.  One stave, I heat treated with a heat gun a few times and the other didn't need to be heat straightened.  I now have both staves to the floor tillering stage, but do not want to go any further for fear that the wood is still too moist.  I have been keeping the staves in my heat box for a few days and the temp is right at 100 degrees.  No signs of propellor or drying checks, etc.  My question is this, can anybody give me advise on how to get the wood to proper moisture content from here so that I can work on tillering, etc?  Have I done anything wrong to this point?  How much time would the staves require in my heat box before moisture is down to around 8%?  Thanks in advance for any and all advise.  Mark.

Offline darwin

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2013, 12:19:26 pm »
I have been told that you can leave a stave in a hot Texas attic (or inside a car) for a month and that will dry it out, but i have never tried before. Plus its winter so it probably wont get hot enough there anyways.

I don't honestly know I'm interested to see what some of these other guys think

blackhawk

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2013, 12:21:59 pm »
Sounds like you are on the right track and taking the right steps...buy a cheap postage scale and weigh them before you start the hot box phase...and when they've stopped losing moisture for a 1/4 of the time it took to stop losing moisture you should be safe.

Or...you could just let em sit for awhile longer and come up and see me and ill swap ya your green osage for some of my seasoned stock ;)

Offline Pat B

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2013, 12:28:32 pm »
Mark, reduction of the size is the best way to get the stave to loose moisture. Steaming a wet stave will reduce the moisture content also. I would not use dry heat, as in heat treating it on a stave that is not seasoned well.
 A few years ago I bought an osage stave that was 1 month off the stump. I split out 3 staves from it and made a 60" static recurve with one of the staves about 1 month later after reducing it to just over bow size. The wood felt dry and worked like a dry stave but as I worked the bow it began to take more set than I had expected it to and shortly after that it developed frets in the belly.  I set that bow aside for a few months, ground down the belly to remove the frets and added an Argentine osage slat to the belly with some reflex added. After retillering I had a very sweet little recurve.   I had heard for years that dry wood and seasoned wood were two different things. Now I don't use unseasoned wood if I can help it. There is a big difference.
  You can reduce all your staves to almost bow size, seal the back and ends well and it will help speed up the drying process...but a well seasoned stave makes the best bows.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Orangeman89

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2013, 12:39:34 pm »
Thanks fellas.  Blackhawk, I have two more really nice trees that I need to get onto the ground and I will be in really good shape for the future.  I will definately take you up on the trade, but will wait until I am fully loaded so I have alot to offer.  Hoping to cut them in the next week.  I will try to get some pictures on here soon of my current stash, and if you like something from the pics, we can make a trade sooner.  I am currently only trying to cut really clean stuff, since I am just beginning this journey and don't want to over-challenge myself at this point.  My goal now is to build a very capable, durable hunting bow.   

Offline Marks

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2013, 12:51:33 pm »
I cut and split my tree back in early December and have been working on one of the staves off and on since then. I'm to floor tillering now too so I went and bought a moisure meter and my wood said 5-6.5%. It has spent most of the time in my unheated garage and some inside the house. Not sure how accurate those things are but I've been moving on with the floor tillering.

blackhawk

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2013, 12:57:29 pm »
You def don't need much to offer to trade with me man...and I'm not the one in need of seasoned or green wood(or anymore wood for that matter)...you are ;) up to you. Like pat said..."seasoned" wood is best,and it is best IMO to be patient with osage in most circumstances. Especially if its nice clean good osage. It also wouldn't hurt to hang out with someone who knows what there doing to...not that I do ::)  You could learn ten times more in one day than a couple weeks on here.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2013, 12:58:56 pm »
Mark, the pin type moisture meters only measure the moisture at the depth the needles stick in the wood, which isn't very deep. You can drill small holes in the handle area and hammer two brads into it and touch the pins to the brads to get a reading deeper inside of the wood.
  The best way is to weight the stave until the weight loss stops for a few days.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Orangeman89

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2013, 10:37:53 pm »
Hey Blackhawk,
I would love to come up there and trade some seasoned wood for what I have and also spend some time learning whatever I can about building self-bows.  I could bring up what I have started, or start from scratch, or just watch and learn.  I agree that it is much better to learn from somebody that already has been there and done that than trying to learn from reading, etc...  Any time that you are looking for some bow building company or feel up to the challenge of helping out a beginner, just let me know and I will be traveling north!  Thanks.
Mark
   

blackhawk

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Re: Speed Drying Osage
« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2013, 11:01:29 pm »
Pm sent to ya orangeman