B50... why on earth do you guys use it?

[ionicmuffin]

Have them run it for you and demonstrate its ability? Make sure its still cutting fine, mostly to make sure the motor still works and functions. Bring some of your own wood to check it with. And if you can see if they still have the manual, im sure you can find it online, but a hard copy wouldnt hurt

[osage outlaw]

that posting expired.  What model was it?  How old?  I've owned a couple of Craftsman bandsaws and I've had to fix a few things on them.  I just broke the blad tension control on mine.  I need to figure out how to fix it

Check the tires, blade guides, motor, wheels, If it runs make sure it doesn't have a lot of vibration.  It should be nice and smooth

[Pappy]

Yep,wider blades cut larger wood and the thinner with cut curves better,I had a 12 like that for years,O I still have it just use my bigger one more now,one good piece of advice that was given me and will save a lot of staves,always keep the wood you can't see away from the blade. It is real easy with a stave to try and let it set flat,then when you look at the other side you go Aw crap.  
   Pappy

[toomanyknots]

that posting expired.  What model was it?  How old?  I've owned a couple of Craftsman bandsaws and I've had to fix a few things on them.  I just broke the blad tension control on mine.  I need to figure out how to fix it

Check the tires, blade guides, motor, wheels, If it runs make sure it doesn't have a lot of vibration.  It should be nice and smooth

It is still showing up for me, here is a picture:



I don't know the model or year yet. All I gots to go on is according to the guy selling it, it works fine.
I will surely test it out before I buy it. Thank you for the tips outlaw, I appreciate it. So it should run smooth?...

Have them run it for you and demonstrate its ability? Make sure its still cutting fine, mostly to make sure the motor still works and functions. Bring some of your own wood to check it with. And if you can see if they still have the manual, im sure you can find it online, but a hard copy wouldnt hurt

Anyway to tell if it has a bad motor?

Yep,wider blades cut larger wood and the thinner with cut curves better,I had a 12 like that for years,O I still have it just use my bigger one more now,one good piece of advice that was given me and will save a lot of staves,always keep the wood you can't see away from the blade. It is real easy with a stave to try and let it set flat,then when you look at the other side you go Aw crap.  
   Pappy

Thank you for the tips. Until I get a hang of my tablesaw and how not to kill myself while using it,  , I might like to use a bandsaw for alot of my lumber cutting. Main reason is resawning backings and lams though, any blade suggestions for resawning backings? I have heard using low tension can help keep drift at a minimum, although I have no clue and no experience.

[osage outlaw]

I had on that was one style newer than that one.  It always had a wobble/vibration to it.  I would tighten everything down and it would almost go away.  Then it would slowly come back.  After a lot of investigation, a new shaft key, and some help from my Dad we found the problem.  The slot on the motor shaft had a bur in it and it wouldn't allow the key to go all the way in.  Only half of the lock screw was on the key when tightened down.  It kept working loose.  I guess the guy that had it before me had the same problem because I could see where he tried to epoxy it in place.  Once we smoothed out the key slot and got the key inserted all the way it smoothed right out.

The most important thing you can do is set it up correctly.  There are some youtube videos that show how to do it.

[toomanyknots]

I had on that was one style newer than that one.  It always had a wobble/vibration to it.  I would tighten everything down and it would almost go away.  Then it would slowly come back.  After a lot of investigation, a new shaft key, and some help from my Dad we found the problem.  The slot on the motor shaft had a bur in it and it wouldn't allow the key to go all the way in.  Only half of the lock screw was on the key when tightened down.  It kept working loose.  I guess the guy that had it before me had the same problem because I could see where he tried to epoxy it in place.  Once we smoothed out the key slot and got the key inserted all the way it smoothed right out.

The most important thing you can do is set it up correctly.  There are some youtube videos that show how to do it.

Alrighty. Thank ya outlaw.

[Buckeye Guy]

Why do I use B50
Some where around  30 years ago a man gave me what looks like will turn out to be a life time supply of it !
My mom taught me not to be throwing things away just cause someone thinks they have something better !
Why would I worry about the rest ?
Have fun !
Guy

[JackCrafty]

I don't use it.   Well, I can't say that.  It's good for sewing leather. 

[sleek]

Initially, I felt bad when I switched to modern string material. But I was tired of worrying about when my string was going to break, ( usually at the 500 shot mark ) and needed more reliability. After asking around, somebody made the point that went like this. " why not use modern stuff? The indians were sure quick enough to switch to modern equipment, steel hatchets, guns, etc... " I thought, well hell, the only reason the ancients didnt use the better stuff is cause they didnt have it, otherwise they would have. So I feel I am keeping in the spirit of things.

[JW_Halverson]

How were your strings breaking, Sleek?  I've been shooting the same string on my sinewed osage for 6 years.  I've changed the serving about once a year or so, but the string is still pristine!

[sleek]

I was using craft store Jute string and its fibers just werent all that long... They would break somewhere usually mid limb.

[JW_Halverson]

Duh, Jute.  I was thinking you were breaking B-50 strings. 

Yup, we all draw our lines here and there as we see fit.  But the guys that draw the lines where natural materials end and modern materials start always get a huge bunch of extra credit in my book.  Thanks to Iowabow and his recent articles in P.A. I think I may venture into milkweed bowstrings soon. 

[The Gopher]

because i just don't have that kind of cash! It's one reason i've never bought a bow or an arrow. Now you might say that nettles or milkweed is free, and i agree, but there is a break even point where the effort and the cost need to be considered. If i found a nicely made Mark St Louis bow at a garage sale for 10 bucks i'd buy my first bow too!...along with another spool of B50

Like others have said, i just don't feel the need to chase a little bit more performance, not worth it to me. After shooting in my b50 strings i never see a change in brace height, unless the string falls off or something and comes untwisted a couple turns.

[dbb]

I use both B-50,B55 and FF. And personally i prefer ff,But i say use what you feel is right for you.
But i cant say i think B-50 is more "primitive" than FF,its just a slightly older oilderiverat (Plastic)

[PrimitiveTim]

I got to say, I've really enjoyed this thread.  One thing that drew to primitive bows is that they're basically free as far as spending money goes.  You buy a few initial tools and after that you can make bows until your heart is content.  I can't see myself ever buying a string as long as I have squirrels running around the yard or some strong fibrous plants around.  Making your own primitive string is a lot of fun!  I get almost as much satisfaction out of making a string as I do a bow.  It takes craftsman ship and hard work to turn a bundle of fibers into a string but when that pile of fibers diminishes and you're left holding a nice even string you can really feel proud of yourself.  I'd like to encourage everyone that has made a bow to try making a primitive bowstring to go along with it just to try it out.