Setback handle w/ Static Recurve ?'s

[cool_98_555]

Hello everyone.  I have finally decided on a design for a near-perfect dense osage board.  I want to make a setback handle with severe static recurves.  I realize this bow will be under a lot of stress and store a lot of energy, so I will definately take my time tillering.  I have no problem taking a long time to tiller a bow such as this. I have a few questions regarding this design, but I figure I will give my layout dimensions and my plans before I ask the questions.

Desired Draw Weight:  85#  (yes, I can handle it)
Draw Length:  30" (yes...I actually draw fully to 30")
Bow Length:  66"  (want to go 64", but I think that would be too short for this design and a 30" draw)
Width at fades:  1 3/8"
Taper:  Parallel limbs from fades to last 3rd of limb, then taper to 3/8" wide at tips
Degree of setback:  5"
Degree of recurve:  Severe static
Handle/Fades:  4" handle with 3" fades
Thickness at handle: 1" + 1/2" riser that conforms to curve on setback handle
Approx. length of working limb:  20-24"

Here are my questions:
1.  I am not sure of what to start with in terms of thickness taper from the fades.
2.  I don't know how thick the static recurve needs to be in order for it not to bend through the draw.
3.  With bows of this design, it appears as though the thickness of the working limbs look parallel, almost like they tillered the bow by tapering the sides instead, like you would do if you used the mass principle or if it was a pyramid design.  I don't want a pyramid design on this bow...parallel limbs until the last 3rd, then taper the last 3rd, so I know I have to taper the belly gradually.  Knowing that most of the bows of this design "look" like they don't taper much in thickness, I will just have to be very careful and slow during tillering (which is fine).

Any reccomendations for the questions I have are greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

[cool_98_555]

Just an additional question I thought of after I posted this thread:
4.  After I steam the setback into the handle, will I have to steam some deflex into the working limbs to get them to come back to center a little, or do I tiller the bow until the limbs obviously curve back down?

Thank you

[Joec123able]

All the thickness measurements vary. for your static recurves they will be slightly thicker then the rest of the limb say maybe 1/4 inch maybe less. If your putting set back into the handle putting deflex in the limbs will do two things it will relieve some stress on the working limbs and make tillering alittle easier because reflexed limbs are a pain in the ass to tiller and it's easy to miss your goal weight

[blackhawk]

I'm confused...is this osage board going to be backed? And how many bows have you made that you have been "satisfied" with...it might be a bit too much if you haven't made many IMHO? If this is going to be an unbacked board id go wider than that,and this is asking a lot and def pushing the limits.

[bubby]

sounds ambitious to say the least, start your taper just like any other bow get it to bending and go from there

[Pat B]

I never measure thickness but emove wood until both limbs bend evenly an together at the draw weight you desire.

[cool_98_555]

Thanks for the replies so far.  I have made many bows that I have been satisfied with, both out of boards and staves.  I don't know exactly, but I would say more than 20.  I realize this design puts a LOT of stress on the limbs, even more so than many other designs, so I have been thinking of backing it with a 1/8" hickory strip.  Of course the hickory will be very high quality with straight grain.  You recommend a wider limb?  How much wider?  I would be willing to do 1.5", maybe 1.75", but 2 is too wide for me.  It is a dense piece of osage too.

[Joec123able]

I'd go 1.75 inch wide the bow seems doable. Have you seen mike from boarriorbows bows videos on YouTube where he builds the Lakota Osage bow His was I think 54 inchs long sinew backed stiff handle stiff highly reflexed tips you could check that bow out

[cool_98_555]

Yes I have seen a lot of Mike's stuff on YouTube.  I haven't seen the Lakota Osage bow specifically though, however.  I'll have to check that out.  Thanks for the reference and the 1.75" recommendation.  If I do 1.75, i'll taper the thickness from .75" at the fades to .5" at the point where the recurve starts, and i'll leave the severe static recurve section at .5" thick for starters.  The important thing is that I don't want the recurve to bend at all making it a working recurve.  I really want to stick to the static recurve design.