First bow layout -need guidance

[Dan K]

Thanks guys.  I'm pretty intimidated for sure.  I think I'll cut it to two inches and then play with it for awhile trying the different tools.  I tested the moisture content and it's pegging at 20%  Did you cut on yours yet Steve?

[steve b.]

No, I can't.  I bent my bandsaw blade trying to rip it and tried two hatchets but they don't work well.  Too many knots for a drawknife.  So I need to fix the bandsaw. 
I hope you're right about the moisture because I had some set from two bows that i made from it and it seemed excessive.  So I will be sure to dry this stuff before tillering.  I plan to heat treat over fire anyway so hopefully that helps.  I don't have a meter but need one. 

[Bryce]

Hey I got a stave from Steve as well... Though I cut mine out a bit different


Gonna be my chinook war bow

[Dan K]

I ran it through the band saw and checked moisture when I was through.  I was getting readings here and there at 10 to 20% the higher was at the ends and the middle section around the handle.  The areas in between were between 10 and 15%  I brought mine inside and will lay it between the wife and I tonight to dry out...just kidding. I did bring it inside to dry.  I will need some coaching as to when and how to finish this.

[Dan K]

Keen on that one Bryce.  My kids are Chinook and would be proud to see it when your done.  Did you do a moisture check?  I'm sure it's the same if it's from the same log.  Maybe I'll go by Steve's this week end with my meter and a blade for his saw.  Keep me posted.

[randman]

You got the idea Dan. Don't worry about the grain violations on the side to side taper. I usually just do my back profile taper by eye but you could get more scientific about it and make a mark every 3" or so down the length of the centerline of the back and then make your marks to side at the 3' mark gradually bring them closer to the centerline in increments to get an even taper if you have to (hope that makes sense). To gauge the thickness taper I cheat and use this primitive marking gauge (after you cut the back profile to shape) to make a line down the side. This gives me a consistent line that I can stay to the outside of at the fade end (thicker) and make it disappear at the tip end (thinner). It also follows any humps and bumps of the back surface. For the weight of most of the bows I make 5/8" and 1/2" thick marks work out just right (your results may vary depending on wood type and desired draw weight). I make the side mark on both sides of the limb.

[Dan K]

Thank you Randman, This makes perfect sense.  And I did get scientific, way too scientific with the measuring.  When I don't know I error on the side of caution.  As you know once you cut it it's cut.  Cool jig!  It's these little treasures people share that make this site invaluable so thanks again.

[Dan K]

I have a bow!  It's not done yet.  But it's a bow. Thanks to Steve and Bryce for the one on one tutoring last night. I'm lucky enough to have experienced Bowyers living in my area who are willing to donate time to helping me. For you apprentices out there, if you can find someone around you (who knows what they're doing) to mentor with don't hesitate to do it. These guys saved me a month of cutting a little here and a little there and questioning if I did it right. If your a visual learner like I am, you need someone to push you aside and rasp out everything you just did so you know what the people online are talking about. All of you have helped so much to build my knowledge but last night it was all converted to intelligence. And I have a bow!  I'll post some pics when I can.

Thx and cheers!