Rawhide Backing ????

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Hey guys-
I spent six hours on a red oak board bow for a trade and it is coming along super sweet!!!

I plan on backing the red oak with rawhide since the guy draws between 28-31 inches... keeping you guessing on the actual draw. Anyways the bow is roughted out to shape and taken down to 1/2 inch thickness. The limbs are starting to bend slightly.

I was wondering do I back the bow now where it is or should I do it once the bow is floor tillered more? The bow is 66 inches ttt and I have added tip overlays so that it looks more like a recurve. I need the bow to be between 47-60 pounds so that is why I want to back it with rawhide... plus I have never backed anything so I thought I give it a shot. Thanks guys for the help. I would add pictures but photobucket is being a pain in the butt....

Justin

[Pat B]

Justin, you can add the rawhide now. It is a pretty simple process.

[Cameroo]

I glue the backing on before even cutting the side profile out of the board, then it's trimmed at the same time as the wood when I feed it through the bandsaw.  But now would be a good time to do it too.  Got any old bike inner tubes? just sandwich the rawhide between your bow and another board, wrap the whole works with inner tubes, and let it sit overnight. 

I made a video a while back showing a trilam glueup, but you can use the same technique with rawhide.  You can watch it here if you're interested.  Just skip to the end to see how it's wrapped up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a3nhYpq6cY

[Pat B]

If the rawhide is thin enough and will drape over the bow when wet I don't use a wrap. If it is thicker I use strips of old bed sheets to wrap but only for about an hour. I then remove the wrap and examine it to be sure there are no air pockets or excess glue pockets before the glue completely sets up. If needed I will cut a small lengthwise slit with a sharp razor to add glue or remove excess glue. You will never see the slit after the glue and rawhide backing dry.

[Pappy]

I do about like Pat except I use a ace bandage,the thin stretchy kind you might use for a sprain ankle or wrist. I put the backing on when I feel pretty sure I will need no more heat to correct or reflex the bow. Usually just beyond floor tiller,If it's going to blow bending that little ,the rawhide won't help anyway.
   Pappy

[lostarrow]

I don't wet the hide . I sand the flesh side flat and smooth and then  "soften" it slightly over  the sharp edge of my work bench,just enough to bend easily over contours. I then run 60 grit sandpaper over the back (with the grain)of the bow just enough to score it. Size the back and the hide with a thin coat of glue. Iron, set on a temp just warm enough to work the glue (shouldn't sizzle) and squeege with a pollished piece of metal(I use a small brass bar )as you go. The hide will suck the glue into it so make sure you use a good amount when sizing. With this method you aren't waiting for the hide to dry out again,the glue coming up into the hide makes it transparent (if thin enough) and it's easy to make sure there are no air pockets. The brass barr polishes the hide as you go and leaves a super smooth finish .It dries quick ,and cures overnight. Leave extra time to be sure. The semi hard jelly/glue and hide is easily rough trimmed with a razor blade after an hour or so , making it easier on your tools to finish up.(no hard glue to gum and dull sharp edges) The whole process of laying the hide took about an hour to hour and a half including prep. It's the same basic process as hammer veneering on funiture. I don't know if it will work with TB hide glue, never tried it. Have fun however you choose to do it. Take pics and do a how to!