Just my two cents

[lostarrow]

I believe your nocking point should be at the same positon relative to the arrow rest, regardless of the string unless maybe you change the thickness of arrows. When adjusting the brace height ,the nocking point on the string moves up or down on the string and will likely have to be readjusted. Also ,the brace height really makes a big difference in how your bow will shoot with your particular arrows. If you know all of this ,please casually ignore.  Sounds like your new setup is just that much closer to being tuned and when you do get it complete,you'll be ready for the world championships.

[Cyrille]

Arrow thickness has been the same since I bought the bow in "09, 11/32; arrow length is 30" BOP to nock throat with 160 gr points 3, 5"  feather fletching, wood arrows.

[lostarrow]

I guess what I'm getting at ,is that sometomes things might shoot O.K. and we automatically start to compensate for minor shortcomings with our setup without even realising it. When your setup changed , you may have resolved an issue or two that you didn't know you had. Now when you shoot,you are allowed to let your natural ability to shine through with out your mind trying to hijack the process. The guys I have taught to shoot are always amazed at how natural it feels and how quickly they pick it up. They ones who have shot before had only used the crap setups at summer camps or highschool without a proper theory lesson . Totally different experience. It truely is an amazing relationship that we have with our sticks and strings!Have you observed your arrow flight? (long distance shots allow more time to see what it's doing) From there you can start to zero in on what brace height , nocking point,etc. will work best for you. Your bow is likely centershot ,or close to it ,which makes it more forgiving of arrow spine. But all factors of tuning should be explored in a methodical manner. Keep us updated with your findings,as I'm sure others withB.W. bows could benefit. I remember (25-30 yrs ago)looking at those adds in the magazines  and drooling over them. Nice looking creatures!

[Cyrille]

I have thus far shot  as far as 25yds and do fairly well when I get the holdover right. I have noticed my arrows make a complete turn @ that distance or a bit more. @ 20yds they mostly make a complete turn and less at shorter distances [15yds.]
 Which is the minimum distance I shoot I also shoot that distance when "bare shafting.' The bow is cut 3/16 of an inch pass center. The nock point is set to let the arrow lie evenly on the shelf of the bow with perhaps just a barely noticable downward pointing of the tip.
 I brace the arrow's nock below the string nock when I shoot. (split-finger) never have shot 3under as I find that uncomfortable.

[lostarrow]

By turn ,do you mean they are spinning ,or fishtailing/porposing?Are your nocks tight on the serving or just tight enough?Also as mentioned previously, the brace height may just be a better fit for your bow.Ive just started playing with FF strings but hve noticed they seem to make the bow a little snappier. That trait may also exagerate any small flaw in form or release. Could also be that the FF has little stretch  and therefore sends some of that extra energy through the limbs (complete speculation) . Does your bow seem to have less hand shock with dacron?

[Cyrille]

No, by "turn" I mean rotation at 25yds the cock feather in the 9:0 clock position in the target area the same as it was when it was nocked on the string. my arrow nocks are just tight enough so that they remain on the string when the bow is in the horizontal position.
 To be honest, I never noticed any handshock with either type of string.

[lostarrow]

 Rotation is not what I would look for ,but rather if the arrows are recovering from paradox quickly . When taking a longer shot you get a bit more time to watch the flight. I was wondering if the arrows are /were not flying properly due to spine,brace height, nocking point etc. If your setup is well tuned ,the arrows fly to their mark as if by magic. Right where you are looking. You  could try increasing or decreasing brace height to see what happens to your arrow flight (just be sure that you are getting your arrow nocked square to the rest ,as every twist of the string will likely change the position of your nocking point). I like the way you are thinking. Something improved so if you can find out why, it may get better yet. If you post this question on the main bow section you'l get a lot more responses from a broader range of experience than just I. Or you may just find that you are a better shot today than you were yesterday. The only way to know for sure is to bring it to the same brace height as your ff string was and start adjusting from there untill you get optimal performance. The manufacturer's specs don't take into factor all of the variables of individual setups.