very strong glue

[Prarie Bowyer]

Where does this idea that traditional hide glue is the strongest come from? Hide glue IS very strong and versatile and it really is the best for sinew but there are plenty of stronger and even more versatile glues out there.
 You are probably going to have to go with what you can get. I would recommend DP 460 from 3M but you might not be able to get it and it is extremely expensive.
 The G2 is likely more readily available. T-88 from the same manufacturer is also outstanding.

I didn't save the link naturaly becasue I dind't expect to get into an accademic argument.  There was an analysis of the various strength measurements of glues done.  The old hot hide glue came out on top.  It may have been lower (slightly) in some individual measurement like torque or shear... I dn't know.  I just remember being blown away thinking that my precious TBIII was bested by technology that existed for thousands of years.

[PatM]

It's not really academic if we put the discussion into practice. Torque and sheer are very important in a glueline subject to typical bow forces.
 We rarely see glue tested in the lab in a bowbuilding context which is why those links that "prove" hideglue is the strongest have to be taken with a grain of salt.
 Here's a link to some non bow tests that show some comparisons in a variety of glues. http://www.oldbrownglue.com/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

[vinemaplebows]

I like to let the glue start to set a little before application (2-part epoxy) I won't apply when runny. Thanks for the link.

VMB

[Gordon]

I noticed that also Eric. Unibond-800 looks like Urac-185 except with a different name.

[PatM]

I like to let the glue start to set a little before application (2-part epoxy) I won't apply when runny. Thanks for the link.

VMB

A better trick is to at least prime your surfaces with the freshly mixed glue and then add a coat when it starts to thicken  before finishing your glue-up.
 Some woods like to drink up a larger amount when initially applied.

[JW_Halverson]

[/quote]

 Some woods like to drink up a larger amount when initially applied.
[/quote]

Thirsty wood starving a glue joint is a sure cause of failure, Pat.  With hide glue, I do like to size the wood with the glue first and let it cure out completely.  Make sure to lightly sand before the next glue application, though. 

[bow101]

   Rather not mention any other glues other than water based TB, hide glue etc....etc..... I have heard nothing but good stuff about G-2 and it's readily available almost everywhere. Many Bowyers are using it for laminating.

[vinemaplebows]

Yes, Pat I do that as well, did not mention it good point.

[BowEd]

Hide glue and smooth on epoxy is what I use.Both are plenty plenty strong for bow making of various different applications of forms.

[Onebowonder]

Nelson claims that this Unibond 800 is even betterer than their old Urac 185 product.  We'll see. 

I did ask specifically if you could still use the Ammonium Chloride trick to get a "clear" version of the glue, and they told me that you can.  You'll want to play around with your ratios till you get it right, but it should work just fine.

OneBow

[Bernhard Langbogen]

With this glue was glued the wooden propeller from the Airplanes in the 1 WW.
It's water resist

BINDAN-P HOLZLEIM Propellerleim