Points coming out in target

[Christian Soldier]

AS the title says, my glue on field points are coming out almost everytime I shoot a target with cardboard overtop or if they are constructed out of dense foam as most are. My points are on appropiately sized shafts, I use plenty of hot glue underneath, and I hand taper the points with my knife and sand paper.

I can shoot Bails no problem but anything foam and the arrow leaves the point in the target. It's very annoying, potentially damaging to future shots, and will probably get expensive after awhile.

Do any of you guys have this problem. How should I better secure my field points.

Thanks.

Dan

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,34246.0.html

hope this helps, Bub

[Josh Wilson]

Thanks! Ive been having the same problem!

[killir duck]

make sure all your gluing surfaces are real clean

[markinengland]

I've found epoxy resin to be more reliable than hot melt for glueing on taper fit points. You can also get screw on taper fit points. With glue and this screw thread they never seem to come off even with hot melt.

[AngelDeVille]

clean surfaces and just enough glue, don't need to slather it on.

[agd68]

I was having the same problem,now I dont. Here is what I do. IFirst I take a dremel tool engraver to the inside of the point, just rough it up a bit to give the glue something to bite onto. Then I coat the taper of the shaft with melted glue. Then heat the inside of the point up real good with a blow torch until the rim starts to glow. This burns all the oils off and causes the point to expand somewhat. Oh yea, hold the point with pliers, goes without saying. Jam the point on the taper with a twist as far as it will go. Hold it until the point cools  and it will stay on the shaft. Use a flat tool to smear the escaping glue around the point rim and shaft. Have had very few come off now.

[Scowler]

When I glue field points on I heat up both the glue AND the interior of the field point over a candle flame for about 30 seconds.  I only have the occasional lost tip when shooting in cold weather (below 35 degrees).

[lostarrow]

All of the old arrows I had that someone else made and used hot melt (arcery shop) had lost there points. I don't use hot melt. I dont clean with acetone either . I don't know if the points I get are maybe already cleaned but they dont feel oily  so I dont bother with the nasty stuff if I can avoid it. I use a couple of drops of crazy glue right on the end of the Taper .Not so much that it will sqeeze out. I rotate the point a few twists as though I'm screwing it on and have found that someimes it goes on a full 1/16" farther than  it would if I just pushed it on.  If you are unsure of the contact , pop it off and see where the glue has spread.  The crazy glue is more viscous and  allows a tighter fit between point and shaft. The points dont come off even if you try so it's not a good option if you think you may want to change over to broad heads (you have to cut them off and can't reuse the field point) I had a coouple of broken shafts and (being of Scotts decent ) was going to reuse the points. After putting it in a vice and destroying the remaining bit of shaft trying to twist it off with a pair of pliers ,(broke flush with the back of the point) I then proceeded to drill the remainder out of the point. At this point I now realised salvage was not feasable  ,but it now became personal as I wasn't going to let this  dirty rotter get the better of me.Even after drilling most of the meat out the wood still clung to the steel and wouldn't come out clean.Quicker and easier, no mess , no open flame . Dollar store  crazy glue. 1 tube does at least a dozen shafts,nock ,point and a dab at the fornt and back of each fletch. Not bad for a buck!

[agd68]

All of the old arrows I had that someone else made and used hot melt (arcery shop) had lost there points. I don't use hot melt. I dont clean with acetone either . I don't know if the points I get are maybe already cleaned but they dont feel oily  so I dont bother with the nasty stuff if I can avoid it. I use a couple of drops of crazy glue right on the end of the Taper .Not so much that it will sqeeze out. I rotate the point a few twists as though I'm screwing it on and have found that someimes it goes on a full 1/16" farther than  it would if I just pushed it on.  If you are unsure of the contact , pop it off and see where the glue has spread.  The crazy glue is more viscous and  allows a tighter fit between point and shaft. The points dont come off even if you try so it's not a good option if you think you may want to change over to broad heads (you have to cut them off and can't reuse the field point) I had a coouple of broken shafts and (being of Scotts decent ) was going to reuse the points. After putting it in a vice and destroying the remaining bit of shaft trying to twist it off with a pair of pliers ,(broke flush with the back of the point) I then proceeded to drill the remainder out of the point. At this point I now realised salvage was not feasable  ,but it now became personal as I wasn't going to let this  dirty rotter get the better of me.Even after drilling most of the meat out the wood still clung to the steel and wouldn't come out clean.Quicker and easier, no mess , no open flame . Dollar store  crazy glue. 1 tube does at least a dozen shafts,nock ,point and a dab at the fornt and back of each fletch. Not bad for a buck!

After drilling the shaft material out, try using a blow torch to burn out the glue and stuck bits. I love pressurized fire.

[AngelDeVille]

I love hot melt.

I heat the glue stick.

Twirl the wood shaft in the glue.

Heat the shaft end of the point for a few seconds.

Place the point on the shaft and glue.

If it doesn't seat all the way just add heat sparingly until the point seats and centers.

Then dip in water to cool.

If I did my part, there is a ring of glue around the junction of the shaft and point.

I snap the glue ring off and at the end of the session, I heat the glue stick and pick up all the glue for the next batch.

If your hot melt is black or dark brown you used WAY too much heat.

[BowEd]

Here's a little different solution and not much trouble either.I drill a 1/16th" hole through the field point.It works.I grab my field point with a pliers.Heat it up.Set it down.Smear fletch tite on my tapered shaft.Regrab my field point and seat it with a good twist till glue oozes out of the hole I've made.If it does'nt ooze out at first just reheat your tip and it will suck right out the hole while applying pressure.I shoot at brand new 3D targets with these and can't complain.Lots better than before.