Hickory hunting bow design for max performance?

[ionicmuffin]

I will be receiving a few pignut hickory staves and wish to make a few bows with maximum performance. The staves are about 71 inches each so i have a lot of room to work with. I am unsure as to how wide the staves will be but from the looks of it i have room that was as well. My question is, for a Archer with a draw of 29 1/4" draw, looking to hunt with it at about 50#@ 28" and have about a 55 at my 29" draw. What is the best width at the fades and tips, hight, and what design(i was thinking something like a 1.5" at fades that stays that width until 2/3 limb. then tapers down to 1/2" or even 3/8" or 1/4" tips to speed them up) throw some designs at me 

[JW_Halverson]

I'd tend to think the pyramid bow would perform quite well in a hunting situation, especially with hickory. 

1 3/4 wide at the fades, tapering to 3/8" tips.  66" overall, and flip the tips a bit.

[bubby]

j dub got it right, a good long lasting design and if you havn't built a lot of bows, much easyer to tiller, Bub

[rossfactor]

Pyramid a good solid, easy to execute design.  I think Hickory needs to be dry (8% or less) to perform really well, no matter the design. 

A second option, is the holmgarde type bow, like the Tim Baker alligator gar bow.  1 3/4" parrelel limbs for the first 1/3rd, Eiffel tower taper to narrow 3/8 or less tips. Increasing thickness on the outer 2/3 thirds.  Inner third does most of the bending, outer third is a straight lever. That may be the fastest design for a straight, flat bow.  Tim's settled at 179 fps after shooting in, if I recall. It don't get much faster than that.

Gabe

[rossfactor]

Correction that's 2 or 2.25 not 1 3/4 for the inner limb.

[bubby]

a mollie or holmegard is a great shooting bow Gabe, but not quite as builder friendly as a pyramid for someone just getting into selfbows, Bub

[ionicmuffin]

I have 3 hickory staves coming, so i think that i will be able to do a pyramid style and then the other 2 i have no idea what i will do with but hopefully i can try something like a holmeguard

[blackhawk]

Some selfbow designs are a hair better than others,but what's more important is how well the design is carried out,proper mass placement,and the hands that make the bow. I'm sure a master can make a better performing simple bend in the handle bow than a novices attempt at a recurve,R/D,lever bows etc....

But my recommendation for you wood be a pyramid as well,and keep the last 6"+ stiff and really narrow those last 6" down to where its .300" at the string groove.

[ionicmuffin]

Ill make sure to do that, Also, i know flipping the tips will help give it a bit more performance because it will have a higher draw at  brace.

[bubby]

Ill make sure to do that, Also, i know flipping the tips will help give it a bit more performance because it will have a higher draw at  brace.

remember to start with your tip's 1/2" wide, and they are about the last thing i reduce, Bub

[ionicmuffin]

Sounds like a plan! ill notify you all when i get started 

[ionicmuffin]

I think i should ask this since ive heard so much about how hickory sucks up moisture and since i live in Washington with high humidity i want to know, is there a way i can measure the staves moisture content without using a moisture meter? Let me know what you think!

[George Tsoukalas]

For hickory, I start out at 2 in wide and then just kind of let the stave decide the rest. If I see she's not responding to belly tillering I start to tiller from the sides. I like around 64-66 in long for my 26 in draw. Sometimes I'll make one 60-62 in long and let the handle bend. I coax the bow from the stave and let it be. Jawge

[ionicmuffin]

Ok, so i just received the staves and boy oh boy was the post lady like "i have a bunch of wood? for delivery." anywho i plan to get started soon if not today.