60 ntn, osage with flipped tips. Sinew?

[razorsharptokill]

60" NTN. 25 @18. Should I sinew it? It has a narrow spot in one limb that is 7/8", it is about 9"  from the center of the bow. If sinewed, do I take it all the way to the tips since they are flipped?

Left limb is a little stiffer.

This was a belly split. I just wanted to see what I could do with it.

[Pat B]

I usually do not take the sinew to the tips. It just adds extra weight without the benefit...unless the tips are working. I take the sinew from about 6" from one tip, through the handle and end about 6" from the other tip. Once you have all the sinew on the back put a sinew wrap around the ends. If you plan to add skins make the initial wrap just enough for temporary safety while you shoot it in and until you are ready to skin it. After you skin it you can add a good wrap to secure the skins and sinew together.

[gstoneberg]

I don't think I'd sinew back that bow unless there's a flaw in it (like cracks or big knots). If you decide to, I second Pat's recommendation.  But, I don't think an unbacked 60" bendy handled osage bow is a problem even if the bow were 7/8ths wide the whole length. I sinew backed a narrow bow like that myself recently, but it was heavily checked and 52" long. You've got a beauty going there, good luck with it. 

George

[PEARL DRUMS]

Jim I just built a 60" ntn osage bow full of checks and hole, it is 1 1/8" wide. The handle does work at about 23-24". Your appears to be stiff. I would shoot for a 26" draw and leave it unbacked. Im sure you can pull it to 27-28" with no breaking, but extra set Im sure.

[razorsharptokill]

Wonder if I should remove the handle I glued on and make it bend in the handle?

[PEARL DRUMS]

If you want to pull it to a healthy 27/28" you should.

[razorsharptokill]

I also have a problem with the string running off to one side. I've tried heat bending the limbs. It is back on the caul cooling now. I tried just moving the offending tip over and adjusting the string nock.

[Gus]

Razor,

When you are correcting deflection with heat, remember to clamp the limb into more correction than you think you need at the time.
Wood, even Osage, will spring back a bit after removing the clamp, there by loosing some of your correction.

So that if you need an inch of correction laterally to line up, I would over correct by an inch to an inch and a half, for a total clamped deflection of two to three inches.
That way when you unclamp, and the wood springs back and finds it new center, your alignment should be about on the money.

Nice bow!
If there are no issues with the wood I vote for leaving it bare and loosing the riser, if you have the thickness.
You could use leather to build up the handle section to fit your hand and then wrap that rascal with just about anything you like.

-gus

[razorsharptokill]

That's what I did. Cut the handle off and glued on some leather strips. She only pulls about 25lbs  @26. That is OK though. Some kid will get a bow that may not have otherwise.

I have another bow that has flipped tips with the same alignment problem. I heated it up and bent it past where it needs to be. We'll see how it looks in the a.m.