Author Topic: Rawhide backing Hophornbeam?? (Read 2312 times)

DRon knife · « **on:** February 23, 2012, 01:10:57 am »

I'm going to back a hhb bow that had a band saw glitch(the bow rocked a bit and I cut into "the red"on the blind side,I'm going with deer hide for the backing.Its a pyramid style bow(?# @ 31" 70" ttt, 1 3/4">1/2" at the nocks)that as of now is well short of the 50+#'s I was shooting for. I've never backed a bow,I have read allot about doing it and frankly that has only made it more confusing,any input would really help!

Some of the questions I have are...

When should I trim the excess hide?

Do I trim the hide flush?

Can or do you run the backing under the grip and under the overlay?

should I heat (heat gun) the bow into reflex first or clamp it that way after I apply the backing?Can you clamp or bind wet rawhide(I'm guessing no)?

I didn't take any pics of this build,but I will post finish pics,thanks for any help,Ron

soy · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2012, 03:22:36 am »

When..n you say you hit the red did you go into the white also? If not there is no need for backing.

mikekeswick · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2012, 04:56:31 am »

Put rawhide on the whole length of the stave so that it overhangs the edges (it shrinks as it dries). Yes you can wrap it with bandages when it's drying. Trim/file/rasp/sand the excess off when it's thoroughly dry and hard. It won't do any harm pulling in some reflex with a heat gun before backing (I would). When it's completely dry you can then grind away until you get down to wood for the overlays. Use hide glue!
Good luck

Pappy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2012, 06:47:01 am »

Mike about covered it,I wouldn't heat [at least not much] after you rawhide and I use TB3 on rawhide and skins. Either will work just fine. Be sure and wet the rawhide good so it will lay flat,I dry off the excess water just before3 putting it on the bow and rap in an ace bandage most of the time.Be careful as you apply the bandage if you use one that the hide stays in the center and lined up,sometimes as you rap it will try and pull off to one side.

Pappy

DRon knife · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2012, 12:06:59 pm »

Sounds good fellas,I am still wondering If I can put the tip overlay on top of the backing and how do I put reflex into the bow while its wet ? thanx,Ron

Pat B · « **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2012, 12:17:06 pm »

You can add overlays over rawhide if the rawhide is glued down well. I usually leave a bare spot for tip overlasy so I know I have clean, smooth glue surfaces.
If you mean adding reflex while the wood is still "green" yes you can by clamping it to a form and let it dry there. This kind of reflex isn't as stable as heated in reflex and can pull out or lessen over time.

DRon knife · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2012, 06:24:53 pm »

Thanx pat,by wet I meant the rawhide,I have read that you put a bit of reflex into the bow before backing with Rh or sinew,it was said that it adds weight to the draw. I probably should of asked that specific question as well! Thanx,Ron

Pat B · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2012, 06:33:26 pm »

Sinew will, rawhide won't!

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2012, 08:39:09 am »

What Pat said,I always add the reflex befor I rawhide back it.I do after it is wet stretch it all I can without breaking it and then glue it down.I feel it has to pull a little as it dries,I use TB3 and try and get as much water out of the rawhide before I glue it, it dries pretty fast that way.

Pappy

hook · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2012, 11:04:51 am »

Quote from: Pat B on February 23, 2012, 12:17:06 pm

You can add overlays over rawhide if the rawhide is glued down well. I usually leave a bare spot for tip overlasy so I know I have clean, smooth glue surfaces.
If you mean adding reflex while the wood is still "green" yes you can by clamping it to a form and let it dry there. This kind of reflex isn't as stable as heated in reflex and can pull out or lessen over time.

Pat,
What kind of glue would you use to glue over the rawhide? and what surface prep would you do?
Also would the glue work on Bone, Antler or horn?
Thanks

Pat B · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2012, 11:25:02 am »

I'd use any of the glues I normally use; TBII, TBIII or super glue. Both glue surfaces need to be flat, smooth and well mated!

DRon knife · « **Reply #11 on:** February 24, 2012, 01:46:59 pm »

Thanx guys,

@ Soy, I really didn't see your question about the band saw wobble I ran into,What I was doing was removing the belly wood to profile and on the blind side I cut to far past the line(into the red),I had already de-crowned the bow previously and only had about 3/8 limb thickness to work with,the bad cut brought me to about 5/16. I don't think the bow will get more than 30-35#'s draw weight even backed,but this will be a learning experience for me,being that its the first time I've backed or heat bent/straightened a bow!! The straightening part was a real success,I was able to remove some prop twist,lay down some wavy limbs,remove a dogleg at the handle and flip the tips(static)!! I'm waiting another week before I back the bow(put it into the drying box).

Pics to follow,Ron

Primitive Archer