Makes sence if your recurves are 5" or more and non-working I think?
You know, if ya think about it though, you just can't use the same kinda ratio, sayin you need X amount of working limb for a recurve because the recurve don't work, as you would for a bow without recurves. It just don't work. Say if we had two D bows,
-one was 60" with 5" recurves, so you would say it has 50" working limbs,
-one was 50" without recurves, so you also say it has 50" working limbs,...
...but the recurve, because of the the physical aspect of the bow being longer, the working limbs would have to work less to achieve the same draw length as the working limbs of the 50" non recurve bow. Now if we were comparing two 60" bows, one with recurves, and one without, than the recurve would be more stressed. But that's not what's happening here. So, it just doesn't add up. Also, I have seen a good amount of d bows around that length. With careful tillering I would think it can easily be done. But I don't have as much experience with these bows as the other guys on here. All the short d bows I have made have been sinew backed for the most part, if not at first, than later on. You could always sinew it and be good to go? I think the west coast cali native bows are typically 36" - 40" long and with the sinew pull typically around 25" - 26"? They are wide and flat though, which will reduce set and compression damage. On the green bow, you might wanna strap it down to a board or something for about a month until it is a little drier, it will keep it from twisting as much. Maybe about a month and a half to two months after it is roughed out, and the bows should be dry enough to tiller.
