What would you do? . . . DONE . . . Meet Eve:)

[George Tsoukalas]

See if this helps you. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/seneca.html

[Pappy]

I agree also,that is the main reason for straightening a limb out before tillering,it make things even and easier to see,with a character bow that isn't the case,it is more by feel and be sure to flip it from side to side as you look at the tiller.Also try very hard to keep the limb tapper even that will almost always insure a good shooter if the limbs are clean , not full of knots/holes ,just crooked. Look fine so far.
   Pappy

[k-hat]

George n Pappy-- Believe me i learnd that lesson!  Not that i didn't believe it to begin with, I just didn't realize what i was getting into i suppose.  That said, I wanted a challenge and I got one!!  the next will certainly be straightend before i go after it, need a little break from this brain strain!

I wonder, would our Native predecessors have straightened it, left it crooked, or added it to the brush pile?

Jawge-- thanks a bunch, it does help seeing those pics!

Guess what i'm suffering from is the curse of the board bows -- easy to lean on your eyes and such and don't have to be able to sense from feel so much.

I'll try to stop looking so hard and feel my way through

  Fortunately, you have the best character bow builders around helping you.  Good luck.

George

Aint that the truth!!  Sure appreciate all of you

[k-hat]

Well now looky what the post man brought for me



THANKS BEVAN!!!  What you're looking at is some primo goat rawhide he offered to send to keep this lady together, and he sent 'em quick!  I'm looking forward to getting these babies on and finishing her out!

I'm hoping Titebond II will work fine for gluing them down??

I did get to work on her yesterday and this morning, and she's coming along nicely.  Sorry no pics, probly won't get any more up until the rawhide dries.

[Elktracker]

Nice!

[coaster500]

Well get to glue-in Pilgram

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thats nice clean stuff. TBII will work just fine for that. Give it 24 hrs and your ready.

[bcbull]

use tite bond 3 not 2 it s bettr stuff brock

[k-hat]

I thought i read about people needing to wait for several days for it to completely dry . . .  is that with hide glue, and not necessary with wood glue?

[Elktracker]

tb2 will work fine they say 3 is better I know its more expensive , I wait a couple days after gluing so the rawhide has plenty of time to dry out after it has been soaked to make it more pliable. Not sure if thats right or wrong but it has worked for me.

Josh

[k-hat]

Alright, thanks.  I wasn't looking forward to a week wait anyhow!! 

Gonna stick with TB2 mainly because that's what i have on hand and don't need to go spending more money on more glue

[Elktracker]

Pat B posted this on another thread I would follow these instruction Hope you dont mind me copying and pasting your info Pat


QUOTE BY Pat B
That is basically it. Once the rawhide is well hydrated and pliable take it out of the water and remove the excess water. I usually roll it up in a towel or paper towels. Lightly sand the back of the bow and wipe it with a clean rag. Add glue to the back evenly and not too thick. Add a thin layer of glue to the rawhide and put them together. If the rawhide is real thin it may drape nicely over the bow without wrapping it. If not wrap it being careful not to pull the rawhide too much to one side(a common occurance). I use strips of old bed sheets but ace bandage works too.
  I leave the wrap on for about an hour them remove it. The glue has started to set up but still soft. Feel along the back for air bubbles or excess glue pockets and work them out with your thumb of fingers. If the glue has set too much for this a pin prick in the rawhide will allow air to escape. For glue a small razor cut, lengthways will give room to release the excess glueThe small slit will disappear as the glue dries. Also, now is a goiod time to trim excess rawhide off with a sharp razor. Once that's done let it dry for a few days.
  You can dye the rawhide before cglueing it of after it is on the bow. You will probably get a smoother appearance if you dye before glueing it down

[k-hat]

Great info!!! Thanks

[Josh B]

I hate to do this to you, but here comes another long winded explanation regarding the importance of balance in bow making. You are on the very edge of grasping the problem and I think you would figure this out on your own in short order.  But here goes.  Put all thoughts of a symmetrical brace or full draw profile out of your mind on this one.  The only symmetry works is if you start out with unbraced symmetry.  With one limb deflexed and one reflexed , the reflexed limb has to travel slot farther to appear symmetrical.  That means the reflexed one has to be weaker.  No good that! What you need to concentrate on is equal limb travel through the draw and that all of the working part of each limb is working equally.  You can use your tillering tree to do this, but you will need to lash a wedge of some sort to the handle so that the limb tips start at an equal level. Then you can see if they are traveling equidistant throughout the draw. I couldn't find my crayons so I scribbled a few diagrams with a pen to try and illustrate what I'm rambling on about.  Josh

[k-hat]

Doc,  these thoughts (about limb travel) were lurking around in the back of my head over the past few weeks, but they just hadn't congealed yet.  Thanks so much, and that makes a whole lotta sense!  Worked on it some this morning in the manner you're saying, and it worked wonders.  I was already closing in and this just about nailed it.  Tillered to 18" and looking good, just need a little more bend outta the outer thirds.  Playing hooky from work tomorrow so i plan to apply the rawhide backing then and let'r sit a few days.

I'm sure i'm not the first to suggest a change of your moniker to "Bow Doc"!