Question about decrowning a bow's back

[Cameroo]

I have a couple chokecherry staves that have been seasoning for almost 2 years.  They're both around 2 inch diameter at the narrowest part.  I'm thinking if and when I get around to attempting to make bows out of them, I'll have to decrown them in order to maintain enough width.  I've never attempted this before (or any stave bow for that matter).  My question is, in order to decrown the back, doesn't this break the cardinal rule of chasing a ring?  Are decrowned bows weaker or more likely to break?  Or would a rawhide backing be sufficient to hold it together?  Any input/advice would be appreciated, as well as any pics that might give me an idea what to do.  Thanks!

[Pat B]

If you decrown properly the grain lines will run parrallel with the sides of the bow. I would add rawhide if I decrowned a stave but I don't think I would decrown a stave. The wood under the bark is usually strong enough.

[swamp monkey]

I have never worked with choke cherry but have decrowned a few hickory, hackberry and oak staves.  It was the only way to save stave with damage to the back.  So long as you decrowned evenly as pat indicated it should work well.  I have left all but one of my decrowned bows unpacked and they all shoot well.  Best of luck.

[Stoker]

If you decide to decrown. Sinew or bamboo will hold it together. You should rawhide back even if it not decrowned. Prairie chokecherry is like iron when dry.Keep it long, wide and thin. I'm the SE Albertian chokecherry bowblower-up champion. It's a challenge but fun.
Thanks Leroy

[Del the cat]

Decrowning is no problem, just a few long smooth strokes with a spokeshave does the job nice and evenly.
As Pat says the ring violations run along the bow not across it so it's fine.
Have a look at my website ther are a couple on there one Hazel one Ash which have been decrowned, the tillering videos even show me decrowning the Ash bow.
It's a great way to maintain width. I've never needed to back one either.
Del
(Google 'delsbows' to find my site)

[Cameroo]

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. 

So by that logic, does that mean on a regular bow it's no big deal if a ring is violated, as long as its not along the edge of the bow?

Del, I'll check out your videos.  Thanks!

[swamp monkey]

It kind of depends on the wood and how badly the wood is violated. Osage is a bit more finicky about ring violations in my experience, whereas hickory is a bit more forgiving.   However, if a ring violation is with the grain not against it as Del said, then you have a winner. 

Bottom line: experiment and see what happens.  You will learn like the rest of us that some woods can take some things and some cannot.  All bowyers break bows.  Never trust a bowyer who has never broken a bow!   

[JW_Halverson]

  Never trust a bowyer who has never broken a bow!   

The bowyer that has never broke a bow has gotten lucky ONCE!  And if you have made only one bow you ain't much of a bowyer!   

You know the drill, Cam:
1)  Do it. 
2)  Post pics.

[Cameroo]

You know the drill, Cam:
1)  Do it. 
2)  Post pics.

Oh ya. Forgot.  That sounds like a good plan.  

[George Tsoukalas]

I generally leave heavily crowned staves a few inches longer so as not to need decowning. Jawge

[Stoker]

Just a thought..I had the privilage of talking to John Strunk this july.I have been struggling with these high crowned narrowish staves. We talked about what the wood was like where I lived. He mentioned that to get proper width splice billets together. Thickness and straightness around here with any length is hard to find.
Thanks Leroy