yew american flat bow

[coaster500]

I'd steam it...  should respond pretty well. It looks to be right in the middle of the stave. I am by no means and expert but if I had to choose a place to bend that's a good place

[65x55 swedis]

heres pics of the string travel not the actual string.

[Elktracker]

If the string is favoring the side your arrow rests I wold leave it personally, then your arrow spine wouldnt be as critical as it wouldnt have to flex around the grip as much, you may get more arm slap though. If its to the opasite side then I would heat it at the grip and then put a block on both sides of the grip and clamp the grip to bring the string into alighnment. Other may do it differently so I would get more feedback and then decide what you want to do.

Josh

[TurtleCreek]

Really interesting, looking forward to seeing your progress.

[gstoneberg]

I agree with Josh.  If the string stays inside the handle I'd leave it alone.  But, if you need to bend it it'll be much easier to bend the handle than those wide limbs.  Cool little bow!

George

[blackhawk]

I always wait to narrow my handle and tips at least until after the stave is short braced. That way you can move your string tracking some by moving the string to one side and narrowing the handle to the direction of the string. Yours is borderline close of needing bent. I wouldn't bend it yet until you have it braced and know for sure where the string lays.

[Keenan]

If you leave the string offset it will be more prone to wrist slap. What you have is very easy to correct. Most people will try to heat and bend the limb and that is the hardest place because it is so wide. I usually do the correcting at the handle. Though its thicker and takes a little longer to heat it is narrower and will correct much easier.  Also it only takes a very slight tweak at the handle to move the tip allot.  heat the belly side of the handle and the sides of the handle as well, Very slow penetrating heat. place some rubber cushions at the fades and clamp in the center of the handle . you will be able to watch the tips move into alignment as you apply pressure. Take it just a hair past the center to allow spring back.

[65x55 swedis]

ok so i finally got around to try and straighten the bow but when i did the slow heat it strated to crack in the handle!! i stopped and looked at them from what i found was that they were all grain lifts so i shaved the handle down and found that they did not continue into the bow deeper. so should i try dry heat again or would you guys recommend steaming it?

[65x55 swedis]

well bad news. i started to really get to floor tillering to day and got one side done but when i started on the other i had just shaved it down when kerpow the limb broke. from what i can tell it had devoloped a little hinge where it broke and it twisted idk for sure here are the pics.

[blackhawk]

Well that sucks,but its a part of the game we play..breaks happen..don't get to upset,there's always more wood....grab another stave n try again. 

[gstoneberg]

Bummer, that's tough.  I broke a yew bow a few months ago too.  Time to start a new bow.

George

[randman]

  Double bummer! I hate it when that happens! I got a couple of yew staves I'm working on myself that I am concerned about because of some big knots right about where your's broke. A little bit of post mortem critique though: I looks like the widest part of your limb is at the beginning of your handle fade when it should be at the end of the fade. The widest part of the limb should be at the start of the thin section of the limb. On yours it appears to be part of the handle. I hope what I said makes sense

[Elktracker]

That sucks, as others said its part of the game as im sure you know. I would save that good limb and splice it to another or make a takedown with another limb

Josh

[soy]

 Ouch