A Hackberry Named Pearl Drums

[bareshaft12]

super nice bow

[blackhawk]

Thanks osage outlaw...no worries on bringing me a log at the classic..it sounds like Chris is gonna hook me up with another one

Thanks bubby...rock on brother

Thanks dave..

Thanks Keenan...your still one of my inspirational heroes

Thanks blacktail...yeah I love that colored grain on the belly

Thanks Jon(straightarrow)my friend and brother of the bow..now let's see yours buddy

Back at ya soy   

Thanks cameroo...please do try this design...you'll love it

Thanks coaster...when you grow up just be you brother...cus there's no one else like you

Thanks mullet

Thanks matt(mwirwicki)..hope I get to see you and hang out in january when I come up to martys

Thanks my friend Chris(pearl drums)...heck yeah ill take another piece of that mongolian tulip wood

Thanks pat...I dyed it..I like dyes better than stains..stains tend to muck up and cover the grain where as dye highlights much better

Thanks eric...simple is good

Thanks baresfaft...I have to agree

[Buckeye Guy]

Hey Chris another nice bow!
Sorry I couldn't comment a little sooner. But my comp. seems to have given up, it wont even start up now. So I have to get on at work during breaks !
Take care my friend and I hope to see ya soon!

[blackhawk]

Thanks Guy...no prob...im sure we'll see each other again in the near future

[LEGIONNAIRE]

COOL! nice bow.  I like the way the back of this bow looks. Nice tiller. Hope this bow shoots a long time for you

[Carson (CMB)]

Sweet dye and finish job.  Looks great and sounds like it shoots. 

[medicinewheel]

Beautiful! Very nicely done!

[blackhawk]

Thanks Cesar..I hope so too

Thanks cmb and medicinewheel

[HickoryBill]

Wow that turned out great! That bow shoots fast! Tiller looks sweet....But you forgot to mention.....................handle..........lol

[Old timber bows]

Nice bow brother good job brother take care and make a nother master piece

[swamp yeti]

That is one nice bow,perfect tiller and good job.

[blackhawk]

Thanks buddy(hickorybill)....yeah funny thing about the handle....I was moving so fast on the bow,and in my haste when I was shaping the handle I dished in the grip on the bottom part of the handle and didn't realize it untill I was standing at the archery butt ready to fling my first arrow....LMAO ....I just stood there silent with a grin shaking my head looking at bill...we all had a good laugh .....good thing the handle was 1 3/4" deep,and I just took some depth off down to 1 1/2"and and reshaped the handle and dished in the grip in the right spot..lol


Thanks Marty(old timber bows)...can't wait to come up and see you again my brother in january and have a bowmaking fest with you Matt,chris,n nick....good times await us my friend

Thanks swamp yeti...

[beetlebailey1977]

I agree... :)I like the stain job on this bow also, it brings out the grain nicely.  I really like the braced profile, and to me less is more.

[Elktracker]

The tips you did on this bow interest me, any info on them or tips if I wanted to try them? I mean where they get very narrow the last how ever many inches. Looks like a molly but not, The bow looks GREAT!! as usual you make a awsome bow, very well done!

Josh

[blackhawk]

Thanks James

Thanks Josh...ok...you asked...and now ya opened up a can of worms

Tim Baker refers to this style as an andaman-holmgaard,and there are many variations of this based on where you start your taper,which he refers to an eiffel tower taper tips. The further in you start your taper,the wider your fades and working limbs must be to account for the more stress. Also you can have different front view profile working limbs,like staying full width 2/3 etc..or tapering straight from the fades like a pyramid limb,such as mine do. So mine is basically a pyramid limbed bow with stiff eiffel tower taper tips for the last almost 40% of the limb.


I use a pretty simple formula to lay out my front profile. You can play around with this number and just remember to adjust limb width to length of working limb,draw length,poundage etc...

Here's what I do....I measure from the fade to the tip and multiply that number by 1/3(this decimal number is the number you can adjust if ya like)and that will give you how far you measure from the tip and that's where you will start your eiffel tower tapers. For example...you have 30" from fade to tip. Take 30x.333333=10. So mark a spot 10" from your tip and that's where you start the taper. When I use this number I make it 1" wide where I start my taper. So if you did pyramid limbs you draw a straight line(or follow grain) from your fades to that 10" mark and an inch wide. I then make a mark 6" from the tip and make it 1/2" wide and let it remain a half inch wide all the way to the ends. That way after you brace it you'll have a lil room for string tracking. After you brace it and know where you want the string to lay,then you can reduce the tips from that 6"from mark where its a half inch wide. On denser woods higher than. 70 I will make the last 2-3" 1/4",and on lighter woods like this hackberry(which is .50)I made the tips 3/8"at the last three inches.I also glue on an overlay when the tips are still a half inch wide all the way to the tips before I brace it. Tips this narrow needs overlays.

A word of caution is to make sure there is very lil to none twist in the limbs...otherwise you will lose lateral stability....and SNAP....don't ask me how I know this...lol

Feel free to ask me more or if you didn't understand something