Sharpening trade points.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Hi all.

I recently procured an EXCELENT set of trade points in some hard metal and the pallet banding stuff.  I'm gong to use a bench grinder and cup of water to sharpen them.  I'm curious about a few things.

Should I double or single bevel the edges?  What is optimal?  I'd think that leaving it rough from the grinder would include some serration~ trauma.  My inclination is to use singel bevel but on opposite sides.  I'm straight fletched so I don't know if that matters or not.

For the banding type.  How do you add weight to them?  I considered BB's in the shaft behind.

Thanks,
Scott

[CherokeeKC]

I think leaving it rough from grinder would impede penetration.  I would want it as smooth and sharp as i could get it.  A smooth, sharp blade is gonna do same if not more damage than rough, serrated blade since they are both cutting what they are coming in contact with.  The penetration would be the only difference between the two.  I know a lot of people prefer single bevel on trade points.  This aids in rotation of the shaft, if only a little.  But since you have straight fletch im not sure on that.

[Pappy]

I always do mine double edge and leave them the way they come off the grinder,I never added weight so don't know about that,I always cut mine large and take the weight off by grinding them till I get the weight I am looking for.Then sharpen.
  Pappy

[Pat B]

I have come to like single bevel blades. Even with straight fletch your arrow will spin just from the feather configuration and you can add a bit of offset to get more spin.
  On some of my trades I like to put a fine serration. I use the edge of a file and rake it down the bevel side of the edge. This will put on a fine serration. After that a few regular strokes with the file will sharpen the serrations just a bit more. Don't forget to lay the file flat to remove the burr from the back side of the egde.

[artcher1]

Single bevel for quality steel and double bevel for milder steel heads. A single bevel by itself will rotate to a certain degree without fletching, so match up fletching/bevel if you go that route.......Art

[IsaacW]

I sharpened a few last night.  They were made (before me) with a double bevel on a grinder.  I took a fine metal file to them and sharpened them some more and then took them to a fine whet stone.  They are razors now.

[bowtarist]

I have come to like single bevel if I have the choice or if I'm making them. 

Supposedly a helix fletched arrow rotates 1 rotation in 60 inches, and upon impact a single bevel, 25*, rotates 1 rotation in 6 inches.  I said supposedly...I read the grizzle guys "research" paper.   

I think single bevels are easier to make too.  You need to match up the bevel to the wing side though.  For left wing feathers fletched straight, off set or helical, the bevel should be visible on the left of the point if looking at it from nock end.  Opposite if right feather is used.  A bevel cuts toward the flat side. Good luck and post results.

[George Tsoukalas]

I don't know what you should do, PB, but I grind mine double bevel, file them with a fine file and then use a medium stone to get them nice and sharp. Jawge

[PeteC]

I have tried both,but prefer double bevel. When making my points,I bevel them,then temper,(heated cherry red and dipped in motor oil,about 3 times). I then haft the point,shoot it in,then sharpen on my homemade sharpeners.The first has 2 flat bastard files set at equal angles,then finish on the second one with 2 Arkansas stones attached at the same angle.If I can ever figure out how to un-install the "ib" program that is preventing my pictures from going to "Picasa",I'll  be glad to post some pics. God Bless