Heat treating varnished limbs

[riverrat_67]

I have a old osage bow (my first) that pulls 52# at 28in, but has about 2 1/2in of set.  The bow was finished with a spray on varnish.  Do I have to remove it first or just heat treat over then sand and refinish the belly.  Thanks bob..





Lose the training wheels!!!!

[soy]

I don't know about varnish, but I have tried it with spar urethane and had good results, I used linseed oil during the heating process

[paleryder]

That's interesting, the second bow I made is an osage bow about 52# at 28". It too has a lot of set. It's a relatively short bow. It probably wouldn't have been so bad if we hadn't strung it and shot it when it was 120lbs! One of those serious newb mistakes. 

I've been thinking about what heat could do for it, if anything. Keep us up to date on how it works.

Todd

[PEARL DRUMS]

Heat treating and heat bending are two totally different birds. Heat treating a sealed bow will never work, heat bending a sealed bow can happen if done carefully. I have flipped many a tips on finished bow with skins and all.

[riverrat_67]

Yeah I was thinking I'd have to sand it down first (why do I hate to sand).  I'll have to wait till after hunting season my main bow popped a handle off.  So It's back to old reliable, I'll get some pic's up for before and after the heat treating.  I also have some early career hickory bows that have quite a bit of set(think they where still a little wet when tillered), so I'm going to heat treat and bend them to.  Thanks for the replies and I'll post the results.



Loose the training wheels!!!

[Gus]

River Rat,

If you have access to The Traditional Bowyer's Bible Volume 4, check out the Heat Treating Bows section beginning on page 59 by Marc St. Louis.
It has been very helpful to my understanding of the process.

I wrote up some of the process and notes then realized that it was TOO long to include here...

If you like I could send it to you in a PM.

Regards,

-gus

[riverrat_67]

Thanks Gus, I have read the chapter in tbb IV it just wasn't clear how he prepared some of his older bows that he heat treated.
Since my bow is already sealed I wasn't sure if i could skip sanding the finish off prior to heat treating.  On the plus side I have a couple hickory bows that I can practice on, before trying it on one of my hunting bows.



Loose the training wheels!!!

[Gus]

I hear ya River Rat,

The way read it was, if you have a Modern Polly Finish (Plastic) you will most likely have to sand it down.
If you used a Lacquer or Spirits based sealent (Old School, Tung Oil...) you should be able to go straight to the Heat Gun.
Of course you have to be mindful of flamable materials, I keep a fire extinguisher next to my work bench...

-gus

[PatM]

It wouldv probably make liitle difference apart form any health drawbacks you might get from crouching over a vaporizing toxic finish....