Drying Chokecherry, Pin Cherry and Saskatoon sapling bows

[Diligence]

Was just on a vacation out in Saskatchewan and collected a bunch of sapling staves in Chokecherry, Pin Cherry and Saskatoon (service berry for you southern folks).  All had the ends sealed with paint.

I peeled a pin cherry stave and it checked like crazy, so did a choke cherry....so I quickly roughed out the chokecherry to try to save the stave, but I think it's a lost cause.

What are your collective thoughts on curing/drying smaller diameter sapling staves?  Rough to shape and dry in a vehicle in the sun, leave the bark on, take it off?....

....looking to harvest some of your wisdom.

Cheers,
J

[Cameroo]

I harvested some chokecherry from my dad's farm last fall, let it lay in the snow all winter and then put it in my garage this spring.  I have only debarked one and roughed it out, but never had any issues with checks.  The stave was probably 3 inches in diameter.  I tried splitting it down the middle for two staves, but that didn't turn out that well.  I roughed out a mollie-ish bow and left it to dry, only sealing the ends (bark on yet).  I left it sit in my basement stairway for a couple months and then removed the bark and did some floor tillering.  The only issues I've had was that after I thinned out the tips and handle areas initially, each one of those areas twisted/warped a bit.  One bonus is that it also gained a couple inches of nice even reflex. I've heard some guys suggest clamping the stave down to a board as it dries, I think I'll try that on the remaining staves.  They're untouched in my garage right now, and I was surprised to see new leaves growing on them... 

[JW_Halverson]

If you have access to a bandsaw, you can split 'em down the middle right away.  Then clamp them cut side down to a 2x4 to finish curing.  I have ruined every sapling stave I have ever peeled before it cured.

[Diligence]

good advice.  These are mostly 1.5" to 2.5" diameter, so on the smaller side, but mostly straight.  I think I'll rough out a few and see what happens.

I had a chance to meet and speak with John Strunk at the North American Longbow Safari held up near Calgary this year.  He has revitalized my bow making spirit and I'm stoked to get back in the shop.  I was hoping I could turn out a few good sapling bows from this stock.

J

[M-P]

I've had limited expeience with prunus sp woods, they have a reputation for checking and splitting during drying.  I've got a plum tree in the back yard, so I have collected a few small staves.   My best results have come from sawing the staves down the middle and then liberally painting the entire stave ( and bark) with linseed oil.  There was still some warping ( should have tied  or clamped them.)
Ron

[Stoker]

Leave the bark on. M-P gives good advise.I've had them split from end to end.
I normally leave the bark on ends sealed for a year.
Thanks Leroy

[BowJunkie]

The best results I have had for drying saplings.. as soon as they are cut
1. I lay out the handle area,
2. Rough out the belly area on the limbs
3. Leave the bark on the back and handle
4. seal the ends and belly of both limbs with two coats of Titebond III
After that I lay them on the floor of my shop, and let them cure for about a month.
My thought is the cool concrete may help in letting the stave transfer moisture at a slower rate..
Thus, making them less likely to warp, twist and check. Call me crazy    but that is my experiences. 
I have in the past, roughed out the stave, sealed the ends and belly, and clamped them down for a month,,
only then to unclamp them and then in a day or two for them to warp and check  :embarassed:
I have also sealed the bellies and the ends, after roughing them out, stood them in the corner , only for them to twist and warp.
Haven't had one check so far by changing up my methods and experimenting.
But bare in mind, from my experience, this method when applied to woods with a high moisture content like "Mulberry",
rot will usually set in before they cure. I still haven't figured out a method to cure mulberries without them checking or twisting.
But I have done alot of research on how "native Americans" made bows,
I think they had it figured out by making bows from trees that had died from natural forest fires.

[toomanyknots]

"I still haven't figured out a method to cure mulberries without them checking or twisting."

I'm had big huge 4" x 6" mulberry splits turn into curly Qs. I've actually had bigger than that twist itself inside out. It is beyond me how to season mulberry. I know silver maple if almost check proof, I strip the bark off, reduce the belly, and throw er in a corner. Only checks are small ones by knots. If knots can be avoided than your good to go.

[rossfactor]

I've cured a lot of plum by two methods:

1. Leaving the bark on and sealing the ends and letting stand for 1-2 months.  Then roughing the bow out while leaving the bark on the back and letting the roughed out bow stand for  another month.  Then finishing the bow.

2. Immediately debarking, splitting and roughing out the bow.  Than I wrap it in plastic wrap (like kitchen film) and let the roughed out bow stand for a month like that.  Then I finish the bow.

Both methods have turned out good results.  I think peeling a log with Prunus sp. is asking for trouble, unless you live in super humid climate.

[Brevi]

I would seal the ends immediately , leave the bark on , air dry slow in a cool dry place 4 months minimum , cool means above freezing but below 65 F , out of the sunlight.  Quick drying wood in a hot car is ok for some white woods at close to finished thickness which follow the grain well . Shrub wood from Saskatchewan have a lot of stresses in them from growing slowly so you need to let the wood sit until it is dry and stable and even then when you reduce it it may warp anyway ....    the mysteries of wood !  Some ash grows in Southern Saskatchewan which is a better choice than the 3 you mentioned.

You can work it green and pray it doesn't twist on you , even submerge it in water between work sessions .... those red oak boards at Home Depot are the way to go 

[Cameroo]

Brevi, are you from Saskatchewan?  Just curious - I don't know many PA members from here.