Turkey Fletching Question

[BowJunkie]

I just got a new set of POC shafts in, and I got my hands on a complete set of turkey wings and some elk leg sinew 
I have only used "dare I say it" plastic vanes on my arrows. So with that said I want to try my hand at fletching  the old school way.
I have learned when processing the feathers, to keep the right and left wing feathers separate.
So I have taken the right wing and now I have split all of the feathers quills.  So now I have separated those halves into two piles.
One set curves left and one set curves right "if you place them on edge of the quill".
My question is, can I mix these up the two piles from the same wing , when fletching the arrows, or should I keep them separate?
Currently I am going to dye the feathers just as soon as I can find that Kool-aid post.
Also do I need to alter the length and height of the Fletch? I had been using 5'' vanes by 1/2'' tall

[sadiejane]

keep the two side of each feather separate, just as you would with left and right wings.

here's a link to that kool-aid dyeing article
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,26916.msg360783.html#msg360783

[BowJunkie]

Thank you for the response Sadiejane.
Any one have suggestions on the length or height of fletch?

[seabass]

i like mine 5" long.i adjust the height by how much head i have up front.if i have alot of weight up front,i'll leave my feathers a little taller in back for more drag.not too tall though.do one then test it with the heads that you are going to use.then adjust from there.don't make up a bunch at once.one at a time until you find what is right for you.everyone is different,so there is no one answer to this.it is trial and error.have fun with it,steve

[Pat B]

You should seperate the right half and left half of each feather like sadiejane suggests but also keep the right side of the right wing away from the right side of the left wing. In other words you should have 4 different piles from preping both right and left wing feathers. Now that ought to confuse you! 
  I cut the best 6" from the center of each feather to make my tie on fletching. Then strip the forward 1/2" of the barbs off and cut the last 1/2" of the barbs off(won't strip backwards). This will give a 5"(mol)fletching. I burn the final fletching shape after the sinew wraps are dried. You can cut them with a sharp set of scissors, cutting against the lay of the feather or to get real primitive burn them with a hot ember burned on the end of a stick.

[BowJunkie]

Actually Pat.. LOL  I know exactly what you mean.
I was going to include that in my post, But I didn't want to confuse anyone. 
So that pretty much cleared it up for me.
Pat your input is always welcomed in my book.
Johnny

[Pat B]

Great minds think alike, Johnnie! 

[crooketarrow]

   Being you've only shot vanes and just starting out you may just want to get a chopper and flecher and chop and glue your first few dozzen before you move on.  BURNING AND HAND TIEING not going to look like those vanes.
  Many people get disapointed because it's nothing like there use to seeing. And it's not as easy to do as seeing the pic.s. It's better to move slowly. Not trying to tell you want to do,go for it you have to learn sometime if you wish to go that route,just want you to be prepared.

[BowJunkie]

Well, I have done a lot of research and asked a ton of questions.
Acquired the resources and moving forward.
I'm not the type to put much emphasis on looks.
As long as it meets the form, fit and function.
In my opinion, primitive stuff does look way cooler that the factory manufactured stuff.
Besides,,, if the world was to take an economical crash, I want to know I can survive with my own two hands.
I thank everyone for their input.