mulberry designs?

[Catnapper]

I just received a mulberry stave in the mail. It is 62" long and 2-3" wide. It is very straight. My question is if some of you more experienced guys owned this piece of wood what design would you go with?  I usually like to shoot for at least 55#@27in. Draw.  Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!                   Keith

[toomanyknots]

"It is very straight."

You sure thats mulberry then? LOL Mulberry seems to be very light wood typically. Do make it thicker or wider like a less dense wood bow would be. The only thing that mulberry reminds me of osage is the color. Other than that I don't find too much in common with osage. I find it's good for short sinew backed bows though. Least thats what I've used it for. It's a thousand times harder for me to find a useable mulberry around here then a useable osage.

[Catnapper]

Lol so I'm lucky for getting a straight piece? It has only 1 pin knot but it is on the edge of the larger end and will not be in the bow. I did notice it was a lot lighter than an osage stave of the same size. I was thinking maybe 1 3/4" wide from the fades to mid limb then tapering to 1/2" at the nocks.  3" handle with 2" fades. 60"ntn. Would this be a decent design? I'm very new to bowmaking so if I'm way off please feel free to correct me.           Keith

[Pat B]

Keith, your dimensions look good to me. Mulberry makes a great bow IMO. I generally make a mulberry bow about 10% bigger(length and width) than osage.  If you find your limbs getting too thin as you tiller the bow reduce the width some by tillering from the sides instead of the belly.
  You know we expect pics! 

[Almostpighunter]

Just finished one today. It is a bit lighter than you are targeting 43#@28"; however, the bow is only 58" long (56" ntn); however, I think the wood would have been able to handle your draw weight and length easily. I'm going to post the bow as soon as I get pics taken, but for the moment the bow has a 4" handle. 1 1/8" wide, fades are 2" out to a widest 1 1/4" through the first 1/3 of the limb then gradually tapering back down to 1/4" tips. Maybe add 1/4" to 1/2" to all the widths above (except for the tips of course) and I think you'll be there.

I have to say I think I am in love with this mulberry wood. It is incredibly light and responds amazingly well when drawn. I have worked with mostly hickory plus a lil bit of osage and think they are great bow woods, but this little bow with the low draw weight is slinging my medium-heavy arrows at 150fps (the same as some of its larger, longer and heavier siblings). Good luck! - Mike

[PEARL DRUMS]

This is good news for me, Iwas wondering the same. I was given a straight mulberry trunk last night, about 5 feet long. I split it into 1/4's, peeled and seal it! Now the wait.

[Catnapper]

Thanks for the help guys! And Mike I may go with the 4" handle like you did. I wasn't sure if the shorter length of my stave would be a problem but I have a little more confidence now knowing your bow is even a bit shorter than my planned length.   

[crooketarrow]

    Although not as forgiveing as osage it's makes areally good wood. I made all of mine 60,62 and 64 inchs was the longest.1 3/4 At the fades are fine I made a 50 pound 1 1/2 leaveing the last 4 inchs of the tips stiff as I do on alll my bows. 50 Up to 65 #'s was the heavyest I've made. Here in WV straight is not a problem I had one so straight grain I cut the staves out on a saw mill we had at the time.

[Catnapper]

Thanks again guys! I like what I'm hearing so far. I'll post pics when she's finished. Although it may take a while before its done. (been  really busy at work.) But hey that's a good thing right? LOL