Author Topic: White ash, how heavy?  (Read 8836 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline nidrinr

  • Member
  • Posts: 93
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #15 on: March 21, 2011, 12:09:05 pm »
As some allready have mentioned, ash can vary from average to excellent. The European ash is better than the american in average, but you may find good pieces of american ash just as easy as you find bad european ash. Look for ash who favors the late growth rings by as much as possible over the early growth rings.
Without heating the belly, I've seen ash ELB warbows successably made up to 130#@32". (Rare good piece of local ash, grown here by the lake Mjøsa).
With good and thorough heat treatment of the belly, I guess 170# from a good piece should be possible. Maybe more. (You've given me a quest on testing it's limit here :))
One of the most important things to know aout ash though, is how it likes to soak humidity like a sponge. Remember to add the closest to waterproof finish you can find. Humidity kills pondage in heavy bows.

With "malming" of the belly, I guess I may try to hit 200# with ash... But I'll note it in the back of my head for an experiment later. Right now I'm working on a 190# wytch elm snaky sapling bow for Joe Gibbs. I'll post it once it's done.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,633
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2011, 02:22:18 am »
Thanks for the info guys. This stave has nice even, relatively thick rings and is well seasoned so I guess it is up to the bowyer now!  ;D  This stave I've mentioned it actually now in transit to a young bowyer with high hopes with heavy bows. I'm sure he will do it proud!  ;)   8)
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Ian.

  • Member
  • Posts: 470
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2011, 09:24:19 am »
I look forward to the pictures
ALways happy to help anyone get into heavy weight archery: https://www.facebook.com/bostonwarbowsbows/

Offline fishfinder401

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,485
  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2011, 12:05:42 am »
i just wanted to let you guys know that i found out today that i am that young boyer Pat B was talking about. how would i go about heat treating the bell, im not sure if i should try it on this piece as i dont want to experiment with such a nice piece. one last question, what would be a good coating for it, ive only put linseed oil on bows so far
thanks for the suggestions that apparently were going to me, and again Pat, thankyou so much for giving it to me, and haveing the faith that i will be able to make a good bow out of it ;D
noel
warbows and fishing, what else is there to do?
modern technology only takes you so far, remove electricity and then what

Offline nidrinr

  • Member
  • Posts: 93
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2011, 07:36:41 pm »
No danger in heat treating the belly. If you have access to a heat gun, that's the easiest way to heat treat, but allmost any source of dry heat will do. Cooking plates work perfect.
Keep the heat at a distance where it takes about 2 minutes to turn ash into a light brown colour. Repeat with the next area etc. until every inch of the belly has the same colour.

Try to oil it first, then add some wax later when the oil is dry. Different types of wax that are meant for waterproofing leather work fine. I use "haglöfs" or liberon finishing wax. Liberon also has this oil that work very good for wood.

Offline fishfinder401

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,485
  • noel laflamme noellaf2@cox.net
Re: White ash, how heavy?
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2011, 08:45:59 pm »
No danger in heat treating the belly. If you have access to a heat gun, that's the easiest way to heat treat, but allmost any source of dry heat will do. Cooking plates work perfect.
Keep the heat at a distance where it takes about 2 minutes to turn ash into a light brown colour. Repeat with the next area etc. until every inch of the belly has the same colour.

Try to oil it first, then add some wax later when the oil is dry. Different types of wax that are meant for waterproofing leather work fine. I use "haglöfs" or liberon finishing wax. Liberon also has this oil that work very good for wood.
i think i might just leave it without heat treating as the only way i would be able t heat it is a direct flame, either alcohol burner or propane torch and i think those might be too hard to control, if i had a heat gun i would try it though and ill check out those waxes
thanks
noel
warbows and fishing, what else is there to do?
modern technology only takes you so far, remove electricity and then what