Elm - Which subtype?

[Bevan R.]

Other than some occasional Hackberry, Elm is about the only bow worthey wood growing around here. (Western Nebraska)
My question is, is it the 'right' subtype of elm. All I ever heard about was 'American Elm, Chinese Elm & dutch elm disease'.
I see 'Red' Elm listed on ebay. What should I be looking for?

Bevan R

[Cacatch]

Red elm is pretty good bow wood, as is American elm (White elm). Personally, I like Red Elm better. It splits way easier and is in general way easier to work. If you get some Red Elm, use the wood directly under the bark for the back of your bow. In my experiences, the sapwood makes better bow than the heartwood. Winged Elm and Rock Elm I have heard are also very good but I have never tried them and don't know anything about them.

CP

[Bevan R.]

Is Red Elm  the Chinese Elm?

Bevan R

[Marc St Louis]

Red Elm is not Chinese Elm.  Some sources say that Slippery Elm is also called Red Elm

[Cacatch]

What Marc said. Chinese Elm is not the same and I am told that it is not very good for bows. It is not nearly as flexible or resilient as our American elms.

CP

[Holten101]

 I use Wych Elm (Ulmus glabra) and have acces to Small leaved Elm (Ulmus minor). Wych Elm is superb bow wood. I belive Red Elm and slippery is Ulmus rubra and white elm is Ulmus americana.

The old paleolithic bow from Denmark (Holmegård and Møllegabet) are most likely Wych Elm.

Cheers

[JustinNC]

Red elm = slippery elm= Ulmus rubra.......rubra meaning red?.....slippery is ironic because the top of the leaves resemble 80grit sandpaper

[criveraville]

Here in Texas we have cedar elm.. They have small leaves.  We also have lace bark elm.  How is cedar elm for a bow wood??  Did not know about the red elm being Slippery Elm.. Lots of it here. 

[smoke]

Bevan, I am really just a beginner but I've attempted 3 elm bows - all supposedly Red Elm.  I say supposedly because I'm not really sure they were.  I made 2 sapewood bows and one heartwood.   One sapwood only bow - back was just under the bark - snapped very easily when I first strung it.  I did not overstain it so it should not have happened.  My other sapwood bow pulled up a splinter fairly quickly after about 100 shots.  I did overstrain that one so I can't blame the wood.  The heartwood bow was also overstrained but it seems to have held up very well.  I'm not sure geographic areas produce different wood quality but I'm from eastern Nebraska so my sapwood problem may be related to wood grown here.  I will say that my next bow will be elm but it will be heartwood only.  For what it is worth . . . .

[crooketarrow]

   I' makeing a slippery elm  half sap wood with alitttle heart wood now. I not sure but I think it's a difference in it and red.  I also like sap wood for a back and have built all sap wood bows. And all heart wood I can't really tell the difference. Sap wood makes for and easer back right under the bark. I've been told that WYCH ELMS the best for bows havn't made any or any from ceder elm, So can't comment no those. I've only used slippery elm or red if it's the same. I'll check it out.