Author Topic: Yew stave  (Read 3839 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline wood_bandit99

  • Member
  • Posts: 234
  • Shoot straight my friends!!
Yew stave
« on: August 08, 2013, 05:30:23 pm »
I got a yew stave the other day and was wondering if anyone could help me. So yew is poisonous and my family thinks I'm gonna kill someone as I tend to mess up :) and I was wondering if working outside would be enough? Also it has 1/2" thick sapwood and never working with yew before idk what I should do. I think I'm going to do 55-60# bow. It is 1 1/2" thick without sapwood and 3" or so wide. I'm planning on a 66" bow. How much sapwood do I need for a flat bow? I know del is into yew. Hopefully he will help :)
Yew and osage, BEST. WOODS. EVER! Shoot straight my friends!!!

Offline Joec123able

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,769
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2013, 05:41:51 pm »
Hahahahahahahaha it's not poisonous enough to kill you you'll be fine working outside
I like osage

Offline wood_bandit99

  • Member
  • Posts: 234
  • Shoot straight my friends!!
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2013, 05:55:57 pm »
That's good to hear! Now I'm not so scared!!!! Lol
Yew and osage, BEST. WOODS. EVER! Shoot straight my friends!!!

Offline dwardo

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,456
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2013, 06:04:25 pm »
Dont eat it and avoid the dust where possible and you will be fine.
Most hand tools dont produce much dust which is the main problem. If sanding wear a mask or do it outside.

Its cherry wood that does for me.

Offline Weylin

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,296
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2013, 06:10:35 pm »
You can reduce the sapwood on yew as long as you do it uniformly and don't violate any one spot overly much. Look for smooth feathered section where it inevitably transitions between a few rings on the back. It's not really feasible to chase a ring. I've made several bows from yew that had 1/2" sapwood. I reduced it down to 1/4" and have not had a single problem with them. I know Del has done the same on numerous bows. a picture couldn't hurt though, just in case.

Offline snag

  • Member
  • Posts: 419
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2013, 09:59:58 pm »
Remember when the big thing was when a substance in the yew bark was discovered to be successful in curing/treating cancer?
Is. 49:2 ....He made me a polished arrow and concealed me in His quiver.

Offline NimRand

  • Member
  • Posts: 35
  • USAF Retired (Displaced Michigander)
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2013, 03:45:23 am »
Yew is the only wood I played with that bothered me, but Like DWARDO already said I was using a sander. Never has a problem with it when using hand tools.

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2013, 05:33:44 am »
Any dust is bad for the lungs. Some react worse than others. I don't bother with a mask, but I have a dust extractor on the bandsaw and work in a well ventialted area.
On a bow of that poundage you can reduce the sapwood and violate the rings as long as it is done as a smooth transition, ideally with any violations showing as lines along the bow or at a feathered angle. 1/2" sap is ok at the grip, but by the time you get to the tip you will be running out of heartwood.
It is possible to follow a ring but it's a slow laborious process. That should be you 'aim' but you don't have to actually achieve it.
I've found the trick is to do it in stages. Rough down the sapwood keeping an eye on either edge of the limb as it's often not the same thickness each edge. Do it with a spokeshave and youll see the rings appear, you can try to keep it even with a dead flat back showing rings running along the length of the bow at the edges. This helps you to take it down fairly evenly and the lines help you see whats what.
The edges/corners will get rounded later.
Once the bow is roughed out and floor tillered, you can go over the back a bit more carefully. Doing it in the right lighting is key, sometimes strong light helps, sometimes the opposite light from obove or sometimes at a shallow angle... you have to fiddle about with it, but it makes a huge difference. I use an old rasp or coarse file held lightly and cutting across the grain, it will tear/crumble off the softer whiter layer (I think it looks like chicken meat) and expose the next layer of very slightly yellower stuff. It's a little and often, slow and steady. Ok you'll find you've done a load and suddenly you are a ring too high (or is it too low??? or maybe high... >:( :o ), but just keep improving it and you'll end up with a decent compromise.
On a heavy warbow, the back needs perfection and the best ones I've done had virgin backs with just the sapwood removed. Od course this requires either thin sapwood or a lamination of sapwood which has been thinned down from the other side, leaving the bark side pristine.
Just done a search on my blog and there are some pics that give a bit of an idea.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/search?q=following+a+ring
Del
(BTW. I believe the Romans used to make a nice herbal tea from Yew needles when they wanted to commit suicide :o  Oddly the actuall flesh of the berries isn''t toxic, but they are not worth eating, I tasted one to see... a bit like seetish snot :o )
« Last Edit: August 09, 2013, 05:43:05 am by Del the cat »
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline Carson (CMB)

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,319
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2013, 06:08:32 am »
What are you doing with a yew stave out there in osage land?  ;)

After studying some of the old yew bows of the 1930s, it seems it was common practice to plane the back of the bow plane flat.  Plenty of these were unbacked and of 50-60 # draw weight.   I think it works well with the American flatbow design were the back is not as stressed as the ELB.  Personally I like the looks of a pristine sapwood back or one that has been reduced to follow the grain.  But if the flatbow design allows you to safely plane the back flat, well then tillering is going to be about as simple as getting even width and thickness tapers.  I should note these were pretty clean pieces of yew. 






 :o :o :o  I pulled up a couple pics of examples only to notice the example bow has a band aid where a splinter must have started to lift!  ....Maybe you should follow the grain when you reduce that sapwood;)
"The bow is the old first lyre,
the mono chord, the initial rune of fine art
The humanities grew out from archery as a flower from a seed
No sooner did the soft, sweet note of the bow-string charm the ear of genius than music was born, and from music came poetry and painting and..." Maurice Thompso

Offline NimRand

  • Member
  • Posts: 35
  • USAF Retired (Displaced Michigander)
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2013, 07:23:31 am »
Just wanted to try some Yew.

Offline wood_bandit99

  • Member
  • Posts: 234
  • Shoot straight my friends!!
Re: Yew stave
« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2013, 02:44:29 am »
Thanks guys that really helped. I might try that yew needle suicide drink if this thing explodes. Yew is not cheap! And Carson, I accidentally won it on eBay. It is nice stuff! Osage will probably be my favorite still. Cheap,beautiful,sturdy,fast,and easy to obtain.
Yew and osage, BEST. WOODS. EVER! Shoot straight my friends!!!