Author Topic: More details on dry heat bending  (Read 5875 times)

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Offline Kitsu

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More details on dry heat bending
« on: November 21, 2010, 10:53:33 pm »
i was curious, i am going to start a new stave, and i was going to hopefully put a little bit of reflex into the tips, i know it is possible to steam, but unfortunately i can not steam due to my parents not wanting any wood upstairs, therefor i am stuck with two options:

A: i can "boil" it, more or less soaking it in the hottest water i can get (turning water heater to max), and hope that works
or B: i can use dry heat, which is what i have decided on doing, since i cannot change the temperature gradually when "boiling"


i more than likely will end up using either leftover fat from our meal, or olive oil, (unsure if the olive oil will work out)

i have never tried heat bending, i have done boiling with some success,


now for the main questions, 
how well does maple take heat bending?
how much moisture should be in maple before heating?
how much oil do i use?
also, if i am only looking for a tiny bit of a reflex in the tips, how do i set it up for that?

also, since this is a new form of bending to me, i am curious as to what you guys prefer

since steaming is out, its either i soak in hot water *cant get boiling*
or i dry heat,

suggestions, tips, and answers would help me a lot,
thanks


"If you open your mind for me
You won't rely on open eyes to see
The walls you build within come tumbling down
And a new world will begin" ----- Queensryche, "Silent Lucidity

R.H , Southeastern PA/Western PA.

Offline Thwackaddict

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2010, 01:42:48 am »
Have you got a piece of scrap?If so experiment and see what works best.I personally like to steam but the olive oil will work for dry heating as will the fat.Jus go slow and dont burn it,you want a deep brown not black.good luck and hope this helps ;)
Hello everyone.My name is Randy and I am addicted to THWACK!!

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Offline oat

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2010, 10:43:20 am »
I have never tried maple wood before.
Boiling water will work as well as steam but it will take longer soak time and much longer drying time. Hot water may improve ductility to some degree as MC increase but not the same way with 110 C steam.
Lignified structure of wood will melt at temperature around 110 C. But in the case of dry heat, you will need some soaking time as wood 's bad in thermal conductivity.
You may also use fat/lard/oil to deep fry your bow. But make sure that you have dry wood or you will need to increase temperature SLOWLY otherwise the wood will be split by internal steam. Keep your temperature below 160 C as above that temp is pyrolysis zone for lignin and you will lose some strength. Above 220 C should be avoid as is it pyrolysis temp for hemicellulose.
 

 
 

Offline Pappy

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2010, 11:07:28 am »
I would use dry heat,wood needs to be dry or like Oat said it will check as the moisture escapes,I just rub them down with cheap cooking oil and heat[can't tell what tempeture]
but so hot I can touch it but can't hold on to it. I have a  form I use for bending tips and such but you can bend them over your knee or any thing else,just bend slowly and even and keep it hot.  :)
   Pappy
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Offline Kitsu

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2010, 08:33:24 pm »
I would use dry heat,wood needs to be dry or like Oat said it will check as the moisture escapes,I just rub them down with cheap cooking oil and heat[can't tell what tempeture]
but so hot I can touch it but can't hold on to it. I have a  form I use for bending tips and such but you can bend them over your knee or any thing else,just bend slowly and even and keep it hot.  :)
   Pappy
would some oven mitts and a pair of leather gloves help? i do not have a form, but i am hoping to make one with my bandsaw and belt sander, ... at the school heh, there's is better, it can cut thicker wood, on top of that, i have seen him use it to cut nocks into metal (with a diff blade, looked almost like a hacksaw blade) but it has to be sturdy to stand that kind of use, so i am going to prolly have the setup soon, any pics of your forms would help
 
thanks pappy , also, just a rub down, or should i drench it, i want to be as safe as i can after all :P
"If you open your mind for me
You won't rely on open eyes to see
The walls you build within come tumbling down
And a new world will begin" ----- Queensryche, "Silent Lucidity

R.H , Southeastern PA/Western PA.

Offline Pappy

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2010, 05:48:16 am »
I just rub it down ,and mits wouldn't hurt if you don't have a form. Just try and get something soft to bend it over and go a bit more than you want,a little will flex back. It is really not that bad,just go for it. :)
   Pappy
Clarksville,Tennessee
TwinOaks Bowhunters
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Offline Kitsu

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2010, 08:21:09 am »
I just rub it down ,and mits wouldn't hurt if you don't have a form. Just try and get something soft to bend it over and go a bit more than you want,a little will flex back. It is really not that bad,just go for it. :)
   Pappy

its a scary thought to me, but i know it works

(i gotta go, i can't miss my bus or i have to walk in this crappy weather)
"If you open your mind for me
You won't rely on open eyes to see
The walls you build within come tumbling down
And a new world will begin" ----- Queensryche, "Silent Lucidity

R.H , Southeastern PA/Western PA.

Offline 1776J

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2010, 12:57:14 pm »
So how did it work out???
« Last Edit: December 14, 2010, 09:17:29 pm by 1776J »

Offline Kitsu

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2010, 01:02:43 pm »
So how did it work out???

i have been experimenting, i do not want to attempt it on a large project until i get the hang of it.

so far i have removed set from a bow, retillerred the bow, added some reflex in the tips of that bow, and it made it much better, (would have been firewood)

i now have a new favorite tool in my arsenal :P
"If you open your mind for me
You won't rely on open eyes to see
The walls you build within come tumbling down
And a new world will begin" ----- Queensryche, "Silent Lucidity

R.H , Southeastern PA/Western PA.

Offline 1776J

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2010, 12:03:54 am »
So how did it work out???

i have been experimenting, i do not want to attempt it on a large project until i get the hang of it.

so far i have removed set from a bow, retillerred the bow, added some reflex in the tips of that bow, and it made it much better, (would have been firewood)

i now have a new favorite tool in my arsenal :P


Photos?

Offline Kitsu

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Re: More details on dry heat bending
« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2010, 10:06:59 pm »


Photos?

camera is broken, so i have no photos... yet
"If you open your mind for me
You won't rely on open eyes to see
The walls you build within come tumbling down
And a new world will begin" ----- Queensryche, "Silent Lucidity

R.H , Southeastern PA/Western PA.