72" yew war bow

[duffontap]

If you do nothing but touch up that limb you'll have a 100 pounds or more--no problem.  With its less-than-average length, I would shoot for right around that and not push my luck.  Very nice bow Pat.

               J. D. Duff

[Pat B]

Thanks Josh. Yew , and especially thin grained yew, is a wonder to work. I would like to try a lighter hunting weight yew bow next...but I won't take any lessons from Justin!    I will even out the tiller and see what she comes out at. I am pleased with the way she has turned out. I still say the hardest part was making and fitting the horn nocks.     Pat

[Justin Snyder]

Is the horn some you got from me? You better be carefull.  Justin

[Pat B]

YUP! That's the ones.  took 4 tips to make 2 nocks.   At least I didn't put them on backwards like I did with that little ERC bow I built.    Pat

[Justin Snyder]

Yes, but after I touched them do you want them that close to yew? Justin

[Pat B]

If this sucker blows, you'll hear it in Utah!   I believe the horn acts like an insulator so that would prevent your cooties getting on my bow!     Pat

[Rod]

Looking good Pat but I think that transerve knot near the tip would give me siome cause for concern in a high draw weight.
How solid is it?
Once the tiller is balanced you only need to get the tips round a little more, perhaps when it has been shot in.
You certainly don't want any more give in the handle.
Rod.

[Pat B]

Thanks Rod. I had planned to leave that area around the knot alone for now. If it is stiff there that's OK with me. I will leave the handle area alone and concentrate on the center portions of the limbs, especially the top limb.    Pat

[Pat B]

Weill, here she is!  72" long, 95#@30" and damned pretty I might add.   I used 2 coats of Formby's tung oil finish and 3 coats of Tru-Oil. Not quite traditional but close.  I added a silk wrap(set in super glue) below each nock to ease the transition between the limb tip and the horn nock and to protect the soft yew from the string. The pics are details of the tips, unbraced, front and back, braced and my version of full draw. .  I will get a good full draw pic this weekend when I present it back to the guy that gave me the stave.  On the bow I inscribed..."For James Parker...Thanks for the experience" and the bow's stats.
   I'd say not too bad for a knave but what do the experts say.     Pat

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[Kviljo]

Wow! Another perfect tiller! 

I always wonder how thick and wide they are at it's center, because many of the MR-bows are listed with center measurements. It's not much for comparison, but interesting anyway. How thick and wide is it?

Any chanse of weighing it's mass too?

[Yeomanbowman]

Lovely detailing on a real looker, I must try that silk.  Is Tru-oil for gun stocks and what's in it, Pat?  I've heard it's good stuff.  Still alittle way to come back on that draw
J

[SimonUK]

What's going on with that tree behind the bow 

[Pat B]

Kviljo, The width at the center of the bow is 1 1/4" and the thickness is 1 3/16". I have no scale to take a physical weight but if I can find one I will.
 J, Tru-Oil is a linseed oil product with dryers added. I use my finger to apply it and allow it to dry overnight, rub it with 0000steel wool and add another coat. I usually use 3 or 4 coats on most of my bows. Some folks use a lot more. It dries to a hard deep shiny finish. I used the tung oil first on this bow because I feel it penetrates deeper and really enhances the grains appearance.
 Simon,   The tree face was a gift from our daughter. They are made of polymer and come in different characters. We have happy trees here in the mountains of western North Carolina. 
Thanks for the comments guys.    Pat

[Justin Snyder]

Any chance of a FULL DRAW picture.    Just kidding Pat, she looks great.  The tiller looks great.  I think James is going to be a happy camper. Justin

[Loki]

Lovely Bow,nice garden too i didnt notice the face on the tree at first,too busy drooling .