Degreased Osage/Further Question (dimensions)

[PeteDavis]

Howdy-

About to glue up a nice quartersawn board of osage to a hickory backing strip. I always tooth the surfaces. But should I get some acetone and degrease the osage before I glue up? As always, thanks in advance!

PD

[bryan irwin]

I alwas wipe any thing i glue up with denatured alcahol .

[4est Trekker]

I always wipe it down with acetone just to be sure.  Also, what glue are you using?

[adb]

I used to, but I don't anymore, and haven't for a few years, with no failures. All I do now is run the board through my thickness sander, or across the belt sander with an 80 grit, and it gives me a nice clean, flat, ready to glue surface. I make sure the board is free of dust. I vaccum it with the shop vac, and then blow it off with my compressor. I use TB3, so no toothing plane for me. I also used to do that too, but also no more.

[Kent D.]

Aceton is what I use.  Works great.  And if you are glueing up with wood glue, as opposed to epoxy, dont tooth it.  You want flat matting surfaces.

[mullet]

 I've heard quite a few, good bowyers say there is no need to do it. But I do, with acetone, haven't had any failures, either.

[PeteC]

Me too. Would'nt do it without acetone. JMHO  Gof Bless

[PeteDavis]

Thanks all.

Glued up now with URAC 195. Toothed and acetoned.

Will report back.

My finished glued "stave" will be 5/8" osage and 1/8" hickory. 3/4" glue-up.

What is a safe width to rip this piece to to start tillering if I want a heavy (55) bow?

I though 1 5/8 maybe?

It's a 72" glued blank now with 2" of reflex in it.

Thanks again!

PD

[Pat B]

1 3/8" to 1 5/8" will give you what you want. How long of a bow do you want to build?  Hickory backed osage makes a great bow combo. Make your belly slightly rounded.

[PeteDavis]

Thanks Pat. I will round the belly a tad. Does osage suffer from excessive compression under 1/8" of hickory?

I'll shoot for  1 9/16" wide after sanding.

Additionally, assuming that I do not cut in a shelf, but rather wrap one into the handle binding:

What is a good handle width and depth in this combo? I have a good handle piece (osage) and will glue that in tomorrow.

More directly, what is a minimum width here that is known safe? Less paradox the better.

By the way, this bow is going to be 68-70" n>n. I like the long ones (this is my third).

PD

[Pat B]

At that length I'd go 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" wide, out about 6" to 8" then a straight taper to 1/2" tips for now. They should be narrowed to 3/8" or less when done.
  One nice thing about hickory backed osage is you can tiller from all four surfaces. If you find the belly getting too thin you can reduce the back or from the sides. My hickory backing strips start out at about 1/8" but will usually end up thinner either for tillering reasons or just finish sanding. I prefer 60" to 66" but longer bows are more consistent and less sensitive to shoot.
 A piece of shoe leather, cork or softer wood added to the back at the handle and rounded helps to fill out the handle so it fits the hand better. I've been using hemp \cordage wrap for handles. I set them in Massey finish so they are good in all weather conditions and make for a positive grip. I get the hemp cord from Walmart.

[PeteDavis]

Are you saying 1 3/8 limb width or handle width?

I am thinking of two things:

(1)overall  handle width (before wrap) if there is no shelf cut in and:

(2)limb width for a 70" bow that is 3/4" thick to get 55# or a little better

[Pat B]

1 3/8" limb width.    I make bulbous handles  that are about 1" wide at the arrow pass(1 1/4" at the widest part of the handle) or a little less with a floppy rest. You can probably go 3/4" at the arrow pass with a backed bow.  Getting 55# will be the easy part with this set up. 
  These are a few pics of the bulbous handle style I like.  If you want a shelf a simple wedge of leather, wood or antler can easily be substituted.

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[Badger]

  At 70" long and 55# starting with a 3/4" stave you will likely have issues with your handle popping off, it will try to flex through the handle, if you narrow the handle area this will even be exagerated. If the handle does pop off you might try stacking 1/8" thick pieces to form your handle and fades and see if it holds up better. Steve