sharpness-commercial -vs- sawblade broadheads

[paulc]

Hey All,  I took a suggestion that saw here somewhere about testing my homemade broadheads on a piece of vension from the freezer.  So I thawed it out and tried my new heads.  They are no where near as sharp as a commerical broadhead that I also tested.  Has anyone done this same test?  I am now concerned that I should not be hunting with my homemade points until I figure out how to get then sharper.  Are your homemade points as sharp as commercial heads?  And what are you doing to get them sharp?  I used a file to get the basic edge and then followed that with a stone I use on the kitchen knives...the results have not been impressive at all 

Any help you can offer would be great.  Paul C

[aznboi3644]

I'll have to test on some deer legs this weekend and test out one of my hunting blades

What we need to know are the variables...what bow? what weight? draw length? how much does the arrow weigh? how much does the broad head weigh?

I like to shoot heavy hunting arrows...around 600-700 grains or more.  Good thing Im lazy and didnt throw out that bad deer meat in the deep freeze haha

[Pappy]

I have never had any problem with that,I sharpen mine with a file till I get the wire edge and that is it. never use a stone/steel or strap on my hunting points. Just a really god file,takes about 5 minutes
If I happen to shoot in in the dirt    I just rinse it off,make sure it is still true and put the file to it,back in business. 
   Pappy

[paulc]

Pappy, what do you mean by "wire edge"?  I sharpened mine with the file till they seemed sharp, but the edge also felt rough, felt ragged I guess.  So I took the stone to it to try and get rid of the roughness and it just seemed dull after that...can you cut your palm easily with your sawblade broadheads?  I had to put a good bit of pressure on my hand to get any break in the skin.

TIA, Georgia season is almost here!!  Paul

[Pappy]

That is what I mean,that rough ragged edge,that is the wire edge I am talking about,almost like a serrated edge. It will rip one wide open with no problem.  I use to spend hours trying to sharpen them but haven't for several years now. 
   Pappy

[paulc]

Thanks for the reply!  That is good to know cause I was really thinking I needed to go back to the drawing board...

Now if I could only make an arrow that flew straight :-)  My best arrow to date bounced off the top of my backstop (my fault, not the arrow) and disappeared into the salt marsh behind the house.  That was a bad afternoon

Thanks, Paul

[Pat B]

A lot has to do with the steel you use. I made some broadheads a few years ago out of 16ga sheet steel. I could sharpen them but they were dull be the next day. Turns out the steel didn't have enough carbon in it to stay sharp.


With good steel a home made broadhead will be as sharp as any commercial broadhead if you sharpen it properly.   Do you sharpen your commercial broadheads? If so your homemade ones should sharpen just as well if the steel is appropriate for holding an edge.

Where in GA are you? I'll be doing some hunting in Oglethorpe Co, not far from Athens.

[paulc]

I'm at on the islands east of S'nah, Tybee actually.  I hunt out at Fort Stewart as it is the closest public hunting area I know of.  It is an hour ride from my driveway to my favorite tree.   Are you hunting on a club?

I am using a circular saw blade to make my broadheads, so whatever kind of steel that is...?  I thought I might try heating them red once I get that "wire edge" Pappy was talking about and then soaking them in some used motor oil I have laying around to "temper" them.  Is that the right idea?  And would that help them hold an edge?

Paul

[Wolfsongforge]

heat em till a magnet wont stick to em.  a good red color in day light will be good. then use veggie or canola oil, as soon as they are red dunk em point down in the oil. then pop em in your home oven at 350-375 for one hour. if you use motor oil it will stink up the house.

and putting in oil does nothing to "temper" if you quench right after you reach the heat you wqant it actually hardens the steel. to temper is to make tough so you have to use a long low heat to do that, hence the oven.

God Bless
Kenneth

[Pat B]

I grew up in Savannah and spent many hours at Tybee surfing and chasing girls. None very successful at either.  The Power's house on the N.E.corner of Butler and 12th St was where I mostly hung  out.   
  I never really hunted around Savannah.   I didn't start hunting until 1978 when I moved to Bluffton. Lots of deer over there. I did hunt Blackbeard Is. a few times though.
  Circular saw blades should be pretty good steel.   Keeping a constant angle while sharpening is critical to getting a good edge. You may have better control laying the file flat on your work table and pushing the broadhead along it.

[Tom Leemans]

I'm with Pappy on file sharpening. You actually can build up a wire edge with a file, but if you flip it over and use just the weight of the file to wipe the wire edge (burr) off the other side, it'll kill deer dead. I've removed the fine burr with the rough side of a leater belt too. Have to keep your angle true and consistent and use lighter and fewer strokes as you go with a file. Hee hee huntin' season must be coming if we're talkin' about sharpening stuff.

[JustinNC]

for what it's worth. I just made a knife out of a circular sw blade (and a couple heads prior to). That stuff seems to sharpen really easy, but seems to be verrrry brittle when sharpened razor sharp. Also seems to dull quick. I will go through the tempering process on the next one and compare to see how it comes out.