Author Topic: tru oil  (Read 19716 times)

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duffontap

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2007, 05:04:01 pm »
I've noticed a couple things with Tru-Oil after a couple years of using it:

1.  It has a short shelf life once it's opened.  To extend this, you can add marbles to the container to keep it full as you use it. 

2.  The longer the container has been opened, the slower the finish will cure.  I once strained some crystallized leftovers from the bottom of a couple bottles to use for arrow finish.  Light coats took days to lose their tack.  I bought some fresh Tru-Oil and it cured like it's supposed to.

3.  I have applied it with my finger and gotten decent results.  My current system is to line the bow or bows that I am finishing up in the house where they can cure quickly and evenly.  I cut 8-12 patches of clean cotton cloth.  I get a patch of cloth fairly wet on a folded edge with the product and then work quickly from tip to handle with long, even passes.  When I reach the grip I flip the bow over and finish the other end.  Then I throw the patch of cloth away and clean any of my wife's dishes I may have used before she catches me.  I let coats dry for 4+ hours and buff when needed with steel wool. 

The bow pictured has about 12 coats on it.

           J. D. Duff

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Offline mullet

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  • Eddie Parker
Re: tru oil
« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2007, 06:46:00 pm »
  I've kept mine in the refrigerator,It gets hot here.When it gets old like JB was talking about I add a little acetone and stir.It will thin it down.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

highlandwarrior

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2007, 09:02:27 pm »
If you are still having trouble with the true oil or anyone else looking for a faster finish, try this. This is probably the easiest and one of the most beautiful finishes there is. Mix equal parts  marine grade spar varnish, gum turpentine, and tried and true linseed oil. ( This is the only kind of linseed oil that will work because it is the only true boiled linseed and totally nontoxic) Sand bow down to at least 220 grit then wipe a heavy coat of the mix on with a cloth. Leave it until it get's almost to sticky to wipe (45min.-1.25hr depending on temp.) then rub vigorously with clean cloth until all the excess is gone and you can touch the bow without sticking. let this first coat dry 24hrs, after that you can do a coat every couple hours. When the first 24 is up lightly sand the bow with 400 grit then rub with 0000 steel wool, just to get the little bumps that raise up from the wet finish. All other coats are rubbed in with a cloth and ready to wipe after 20-40min. no other sanding is needed after the firstcoat,just rub the bow hard with a clean cloth just before putting a new coat on. Because you wipe off the excess on each coat you don't have to worry about dust or runs, and you get the look of linseed oil with the protection of marine spar varnish. 4 coats will do but 7-10 is better, then just rub in a few coats of your choice of wax. A couple of warnings- linseed oil will spontaneously combust on cloths as it dries, when you are done with a coat put all soiled cloths in water and put them outside, also if you wait too long before you rub off the excess you will have an almost impossible time getting it even, just rub it off as soon as it feels sticky. You get a fast build up, flexible, water proof finsh with minimal work, and it looks awsome.

Offline venisonburger

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2007, 09:47:15 pm »
Jesse, I put it on a rag, like you're putting on furniture polish, light coat, then, let it dry, steel wool it, light coat, and keep doing light coats, even after 2 applications I have a shine, if you still have problems and want that tru-oil finish, use the spray, I bought it at the sporting goods store, really nice shine.
VB

Offline Jesse

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2007, 04:25:11 am »
Wow I was gone for one day and I got everything I could want to know about finishing a bow> I love this site just ask a question and you get 2 pages of great answers. Wish I found you guys sooner. Thanks again
                                              Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Offline DanaM

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2007, 06:47:49 am »
Here's another tip, Store your containers of finish upside down this goes for
true oil, paint, spar varnish etc. The shelf life for opened cans will be greatle extended.
I have to store all dehydrated media in our lab this way as per state requirements. It makes the container more air tight.

DanaM
"Prosperity is a way of living and thinking, and not just money or things. Poverty is a way of living and thinking, and not just a lack of money or things."

Manistique, MI

ridge

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Re: tru oil
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2007, 12:49:49 pm »
 Tiller, When you find the name of that finish let us know. Always looking for the bestest you know.