Tuning arrows

[tgr]

I've made some red osier arrows with tradepoints.  Some arrows have right wing fletching and some left wing.  Most of the arrows seem to hit high and left.  I've reduced the middle of the shafts somewhat to lessen the spine as per some other articles I've read.  Should I continue to take off wood on the arrows?

My self bow has a slight twist and the string where I knock the arrow lines up a little further to left than center.  Not sure if that matters.  I "cant" the bow slightly  say 45 degrees to the right when shooting.  I'm a righty.

Thanks ahead for any advice.

Tom R

[colejack3]

Do you mean that you have both right and left wind on the same arrow? Im a nooby but I dont think you should do that.

[tgr]

No, some are fletched with right wing, and some are fletched with left wing.  Not a combination.
TR

[sailordad]

try aiming a little low and right 

[half eye]

tgr,
      The bow shooting high might be from the knocking point being high....that drives the arrow hard into the shelf and the arrow therefore comes of it headed up. ya can correct some of the right/left stuff by "canting" a little bit more and see if that helps (as long as it dont screw up your shooting). Dont know how much "extra" shaft ya have but another way to change your point of impact is with head weight. A heavier head in your case will bring the arrows a little lower and more to the right. If you really like the "trade" points adding weight may not be an option. Hope that might help ya out some.....by the way I shoot both right and left fletched arrows and that doesn't really have any effect on point of aim for me....JMO
rich

[tgr]

Thanks Rich:  If I understand you correctly I might have to lower the point where I knock the arrow on the string. THere is no arrow rest or shelf.  I would be shooting off the top of my left fist. 
The trade points I made were from circ. saw blades.  I'm not going to change them as of this point.  I appreciate the advice.
TR

[half eye]

That's correct on the string knocking point. I too shoot off my hand so you will actually "feel" the difference by lowering the arrows knocking point....do that just right and you feel mostly nothing when the arrow leaves...... The NA's beliefe was to "pull the arrow to the head" no matter what they shot at....that's what the comment was about "extra" arrow.
rich

[tgr]

Rich:  I'm not sure what you mean with the last statement. "extra arrow"

TR

[half eye]

Generally a person with a 28" draw will shoot arrows that have shafts of 29 to 30 inches....that's what I was reffering to as "extra" arrow. I draw 27" and my arrows are 27" from the back of the broadhead to the bottom of the arrow knock, so I "draw to the head" when I feel the head touch my hand I know that I'm at full draw....cause I dont look at it, I try to zone in on the "spot" without peekin at notin else.
rich

[Pat B]

I understand what Rich is saying about pulling to the hand. This will give you a consistent draw each time. With cane and hardwood shoot arrows I prefer to have the "extra arrow" on my shafts. I draw 26" but cut my arrows to 29" or 30". I feel that the extra length adds more weight forward(like adding a heavier head). Also I think it helps to make the arrows more spine tolerant. I believe this is why I get good arrow flight without necessarily matching the spine of each arrow.
   Each bow has a "sweet spot" where arrows shoot at their optimum. Before you add the nock point try shooting your arrows at different locations on the string. I generally start at a point just above horizontal  and move the arrow up or down on the string until I find the placement that gives the best flight.
   Having an arrow that flies well from your bow is probably more difficult to achieve than making a bow that shoots well. Almost any bow will shoot an arrow but not just any arrow will fly well from a bow.

[half eye]

Very well said Pat
rich

[artcher1]

With your string not running dead down the center of your bow, will, in it's self, create some arrow flight problems . Contrary to what a lot of folks say about offsetting the string to help reduce paradox of the arrow just, just creates additional problems like hand torque and limb twist. I would suggest you get your string alignment corrected before messing with the arrows. ART