The "U-Design It" Bow

[VMR]

Try an Eastern Woodlands or Pyramid bow with some bend in the handle, but see how well it goes without backing.  Choose the layout to avoid all the worst parts parts you can see from tip of one limb to tip of the other limb. 

Probably run out of wood before isolating one ring, so try to make  but scrape/sand to reduce to as few backside rings and run-offs as possible.  While doing that and tillering try to align the growth rings as well as possible with the back.

Sorry to talk out of school--I've made only 3 bows but the wood I used was also poor and this is how I approached it.

[George Tsoukalas]

OK but I was thinking from the standpoint of your safety, prosaffel. I've made tons of board bows. The only ones that have broken where boards that were given to me except for one which broke at a tiny knot that escaped me. Jawge

[profsaffel]

Thanks George.

I think the overwhelming majority is pulling for a hickory backed pyramid. According to TBB, a 3/16 strip with epoxy should work. I do want to try the Modac design, but I think I've got a regular stave for that.

I'm still open for ideas/suggestions.

[half eye]

Yo Prof,
      Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man   Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich

[youngbowyer33]

Yo Prof,
      Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man   Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich

agreed

[profsaffel]

Yo Prof,
      Know for a fact ya aint scared of no short bows....build it and bend it man   Might as well throw in some reflexed tips while yer at it. Everybody needs a rocket launcher......
rich

Aye, Kap'n!

Today I'm keeping the little ones, but tomorrow, it's out in the heat shop for me!

Oh, and a question for you experienced composite makers out there... is it absolutely necessary that I use an epoxy or have you had success using a glue such as Titebond III?

[Josh]

Titebond III works great for laminations... Make sure both surfaces are flat, smooth, and well-mated and it holds really well. 

[profsaffel]

Thanks Josh. I was hoping you'd say that since I have Titebond but no epoxy. 

[denny]

My choice would be urac 185 , found tbb 3 to crack under the backing. I know a lot of fellows use it and I did for a long time, till I found bows failing because of the glue. Not all epoxy is good bow building glue either. Smooth -on is my choice.After 21 years of building , I have made a few mistakes and glue is not going to be one of them... Good luck. By the way linen ,can be glued up with tbb3 quite well. Just my experience. Denny

[profsaffel]

Thanks for the advice Denny. I've not been overly pleased with my first attempt at backing, and even if the TBIII isn't at fault, I'll consider another glue or epoxy for the second attempt.

[Pat B]

I've used TBIII for years and never had a glue failure. You will get a bit of creap as it cures but is seems to be only a cosmetic problem. Urac is the best wood/wood glue to use. It will cure at room temp but cures faster in a hot box or at above room temps. I have also used Weldwood Plastic Resin for glue ups with good results. It is cheap, mixes with water(dry powder) and is very similar to Urac. I get it at my local ACE hardware store.

[adb]

Maple is my fav whitewood, and I've had great success backing board bows with rawhide. I'd definately back that board!