Pyramid Question+ notes on the new guy

[Geofbow]

Hi folks, I'm new to the website/forum, but old in so many other ways that it's scary.  I've got 50 years behind the longbow and a PA subscriber since the early days. I've always made my own gear except for the bows, but I have a few of those under my belt now as well.  I've been cruising the forums for a few days  and I'm amazed, awed, and delighted with the amount of knowledge and skill you folks demonstrate.  I  am building a hickory backed, hickory board pyramid bow.  It will finish, (I hope), 66" ntn  somewhere close to 60# at my 29" draw.  My first two questions are: Is my untapered  thickness of 5/8ths sufficient and two; does this thickness begin at the wide point of the fade out or do I need to ease it toward the limb tips a bit.   I have TBB I, II, & III but no joy.
     Any input, insight, info, or advise will be greatly appreciated.     Geof

[ken75]

your 5/8th thickness should be fine , and the limb thickness shoud run to the widest point of your front view profile then thicken up as it narrows into your handle.

[Geofbow]

                         Thankyou   I forgot to mention my front profile I'm 2 1/2", tapering to 3/8ths at the tip. It feels like the width is way overkill for hickory. I wonder if this will give me fits when it comes to tillering

[JW_Halverson]

Seems every piece of wood will give you fits eventually.  Quit while you're ahead, this is addictive stuff you are dealing with.  Either that or go to your tailor and get custom fitted for the white dinner jacket with the wraparound sleeves and the nice shiny buckles!!!

 

[Ronbow]

Sounds sweet to me. Just tiller slow and enjoy the process. It will evolve into a good bow, just read it and coax it as you go, don't over draw to soon,/ push it. Work with it and you will know, it will tell you, I promise. Good luck, keeps us posted and send us pics.

[ken75]

geofbow you could probably get away with 1 3/4 width but its cut already and theres nothing wrong with 2 1/2 just a little more work in the wide parts.  remember with a pyramid let the first third of the limb bend and do its share without taking set. and shoot for circular tiller instead of eliptical. one more thing dont pull beyond final weight during the tillering. i think you'll find when its down the pyramid bow is a sweet thing

[Pat B]

Geof, I have a hickory backed red oak pyramid that is 2 3/8" at the widest tapering to 3/8" tips. This bow is 63 1/2" t/t and pulls 53#@28".
  As you are tillering a pyramid bow you will reduce mostly the width but also the belly to achieve good tiller.

[Geofbow]

    You guys are very encouraging.  Ive made three successful hickory backed  hickory or red oak bows,  two disastrous  elm bows. And one amazingly explosive sinew backed juniper bow. But all have been the basic, utilitarian, holmgard design.  It would be nice to see some closeups of a finished pyramid especially the tips and handle/fades. I will try to figure out  picture posting process and send along visual progress reports.  Many thanks  Geof

[15yearold.archer]

i just made one pall check out my post i just put it up and mine came in at 50 pounds at 27 so i bet if i pulled it to 29 it would be about 54/55 just tiller it slow

[George Tsoukalas]

Geof, there are buildalongs on my site and Ishow how to start the taper on a board. Take a look at the board bow buildalong. It happens to be red oak but that's ok. I've made hickory boards bows the same way.  hesitate to give a no. becasue a lot depends on width, grain, etc. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/