help with first bamboo arrows

[coyote1956]

I have a few dozen questions about attempting my first bamboo arrows,  wet to Lowe's today and checked out the bamboo supple there.... got some of the 25 per pk. green ones and picked 12 of the natural brown ones, tried to pick weak spine feeling ones. and kinda straight too.  also snuck out at work today and to the bamboo grove there, cut about a dozen or so 8-10' green slim ones.  tapering say 1/4" to 1/2" I figure to try to stay close to 5/16" dia. ? 
How long to dry these? until they turn brown?
 
OK  I have read most threads i can find here about this,  a few questions i didn't find answers directly to,

when i go to cut my nock in the end, which end it the nock end, the larger end or smaller end? 

Do i cut the nock in directly behind a node say about 1/2" or so behind it?  this would leave the node directly in front of nock, correct?   then wrap sinew around below the cut in to strengthen the nock split area?

Can you wash or wash and brush the green dye of the green ones? 

OK I sand and smooth the shaft,  to straighten I use dry heat and bend by hand, just hot enuff to bend and not burn my hand, right?

should i taper the front of shaft to install glue on point or leave squared off?  also i guess you can taper the nock end and use a glue on nock?  what glue works good for this bamboo points, nocks, feathers? 

Stiff side of shaft oriented towards bow riser? 

and finally i plan to use brush on Polyurethane to seal shaft , OK? 

Thank You brothers so much, your allways very helpfull and I do appreciate your wisdom and help, Ken

 
         

[nugget]

Wow that is alot of questions. That is also alot to answer in one post.I will do my best to give you some advice.  I usually let the fresh ones dry for a month or so. You can scrape or sand the green color off. The small end is the knock end. You can put it behind a node if you want. I have done it both ways and never had a problem as long as you wrap them. I would taper the front for a point. To spine them is a whole nother deal that I don't even understand. I usually find one that shoots good from my bow and try to find other shafts that are close to it.  I straighten them with heat and then file the nodes smooth and then sand the whole thing. I seal mine with Poly or pine pitch varnish. Hope some of this helps.
TJ

[coyote1956]

Yes it helps a bunch thanks, Ken

[nugget]

Good.   Don't be afraid to experiment.

[sweeney3]

The rest of us who are about to experiment with cane appriciate this thread as well.   

[Bushbow]

A couple of things: First thing, give the shaft a good bend to see if it breaks, no point in wasting time on a weak shaft.  Try to straighten bent areas without heat, if they straighten without heat the shaft is too weak or too green. I usually look for 5/16" diameter a the nock (narrow) end. I think a self nock is better than a glue on nock for bamboo, eaisier to cut a nock than taper the bamboo . Flatten the nodes and sand the shaft AFTER you straighten the shaft. I think the nail points are superior to glue on taper points for bamboo (search threads field point). Some guys have also used screw in points (like for aluminum arrows), I have not tried those.

[riarcher]

Not to disagree, but maybe add.

when i go to cut my nock in the end, which end it the nock end, the larger end or smaller end?   I nock on the smaller too.

Do i cut the nock in directly behind a node say about 1/2" or so behind it?  this would leave the node directly in front of nock, correct?   then wrap sinew around below the cut in to strengthen the nock split area? I try to get into some nice round (centered) material behind a nock but where it lets me install the tip into good solid round material also.

Can you wash or wash and brush the green dye of the green ones?   Alchohol / Acetone seems to work but it never completely comes off. Since you mentioned sealing, you'll want to sand to the wood so your poly sticks well anyways. Electric drill & course paper to break thru the waxy stuff (it's insistant on staying), then hand sand to remove scratches going with grain.

OK I sand and smooth the shaft,  to straighten I use dry heat and bend by hand, just hot enuff to bend and not burn my hand, right?   I cheat!  Have electric heat. Found if I put about 10-12 shafts on the heater and waite about 1/2 with the heater on I can pretty much run through the whole bunch from end to end pretty quick. I bring them into "straight" in stages. I was pleasantly surprised to find how well it did work. 

should i taper the front of shaft to install glue on point or leave squared off?  also i guess you can taper the nock end and use a glue on nock?  what glue works good for this bamboo points, nocks, feathers?  I've been using screw in points and step drill the shafts to the needed size. pith seems to really help keep them well centered (but I willbe using nails shortly) I wet with a "Q" Tip and use Gorilla Glue. Seems to work. I use self nocks, and tie the fletch on with Gudebrod "D" rod winding thread (only because I have it). Then I coat with poly. I'm waiting for the pines to start running and will be changing the whole game as things develope

Stiff side of shaft oriented towards bow riser?  I do.

and finally i plan to use brush on Polyurethane to seal shaft , OK?  Works for me.

That's what I'm doing. Not saying it's perfect, best or right. Works.

[coyote1956]

RI Archer   thanks a bunch !!!   got that post saved for ref.    so much help, Thanks all of you, Ken

[riarcher]

Ooops! Sorry. I lied.
I don't bother with brushes anymore.
I use a piece of rag. Easier to control, wipes on with controlable thickness, and no brush marks / drips / runs. (and they're cheap!  )