Help me finish my bow

[Greatgoogamooga]

I'm working on a bamboo/hickory bow that will be a hunting bow.  All of my previous bows have been clear coated with either poly, BLO or laquer.  This time I'd like to go with something as basic and primitive as I can get.  I would like it to have a mottled appearance of some sort, so it doesn't stick out.  I would love it if I can use something that I can find out in my own woods.  I don't want to use snake skin...at least not for this bow.

Any suggestions?

TIA

Goog

[jthompson1995]

I just started putting a cherry bark backing on an osage sapwood/heartwood d-bow and I really like the look. It is kind of mottled, dark red/maroon and really attractive. There is a build along for cherry bark backing in the how-to's section that shows it pretty well.

I was surprised how tough the bark was when I started working with it. Seems like it would add some protection if there are minor grain violations.

[Greatgoogamooga]

Did you strip bark off a tree, or buy it?

Goog

[jthompson1995]

I found a tree that had fallen, probably about 6-12 months ago, and stripped the bark off. The sapwood had started to decay and the bark came off really easily. You need to scrape the majority of the gunk that is stuck to the back of the bark off before glueing to get a good, flat surface.

I need to go back and strip a bunch more as it was a fairly large tree and I could get a lot of backings from it. I can probably send you some if you can't find any close to you.

You need to use strips from around the circumference of the tree, not along the length or it won't work. I got some smaller strips and have to use 3 separate pieces for each limb to go the whole length. I'll wrap the joints with thread or sinew when it's done so they don't lift.

Here's the build-along thread:

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,2366.0.html

I found it is really important to trim the bark to not go past the edge of the limb and to wrap well so the edges of the bark lay flat against the back of the bow. You will get gaps between the backing and the bow if you're not careful.

Here's some threads with bows backed with cherry bark (none of these are mine):

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,2052.0.html
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,4508.0.html
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,2498.0.html

[Greatgoogamooga]

I think I can find cherry in the woods behind my house.  Especially after the snow this winter, I should be able to find some bark.  From the build along, it looks like the bark he used was cut lenghtwise (up and down) and not around the circumference, by the curling of the bark.  I don't have that volume of TBB to read up on it.  Am I seeing this wrong, or does it curl horizontaly, once cut?

anyone got suggestions for staining the belly?

Goog

[Justin Snyder]

I guess I'm confused since you mention poly and lacquer then transition to snake skins and cherry bark. Are you looking for visual appeal or a finish/sealer. Cherry bark and snakeskins aren't going to waterproof the bow. You will still need a poly or lacquer unless you are looking for a more primitive version of those. If you are, a pine pitch sealer is an option.

[Greatgoogamooga]

I want to get away from using the poly and laquer and try something more natural.  Not a green freak, just want to see what I can do with what is around me.  The cherry bark is a good idea, but the belly would still be white.  I'm looking for more camouflaged colors.

Would pine pitch give teh the mottled appearance?  Is it sticky when dried, or smooth?

Goog

[Justin Snyder]

You can use berry juice form almost any berry as a dye. I hate to break it to you, but you are going to have to finish the cherry bark also. PatB makes a pine pitch sealer that you could try. Also rubbing on bear fat, bees wax and many other things are possible.

[Orkraider]

You can also make your own wood stain from a bunch of different kinds of plant stuff.

Once you've got some plant stuff, simmer a handful in a quart of water for an hour. Add water as it evaporates so that it doesn't burn.

Let it set til it cools off, then pour it through a piece of cloth or a sieve so that you get just the liquid.

Add a half a teaspoon of Alum (it's in the spice rack, or the spice section at the grocery store) as a fixative.

Now, when I think woodsy camoflauge, I think green, black , brown, and tan.

For brown: coffee grounds, oak bark, tea bags
black, sumac leaves
green, spinach, stinging nettles, red onion skins, and grass
orangey tan: regular onion skins, orange lichens, and tumeric (that's in the spice rack too)

Hope this helps.

[Greatgoogamooga]

I figured I'd need a sealer.  I'll look into making pine pitch.  I think I'll pass on the bear fat.  Making that sounds like a little more adventure than I'm up for right now!  I think I'll also experiment with grass clippings to dye the belly.

Goog