Bow Surgery or Scrap Heap?

[Diligence]

Okay everybody....thanks for the info.  Sounds like the general consensus is that I need to build another bow... who knows when I will be able to get to it though.

I still want to retouch this one to make a shooter out of it...albeit at a low draw weight - I'll tackle that some other day.

I hate to sound like a stuck record, but I am still curious if this kind of failure, in this spot, with these circumstances is appropriate to fix with the Dean Torges method, (i.e. cut out the bad portion and replace - I don't know what else to call it).

I'm trying to learn the limits of what is okay, what is bad and what is just gray area. Thanks for tolerating me.

And I do need to tell you all that I've been looking at all the great bows you folks put out, and I'm always astounded!  Surfing through the pictures and the threads really helped me to get through a few long nights this past year....thanks for that.

Cheers,
J

[Alpinbogen]

I've used Dean's scalloped belly patches to repair chrysals and hinges before.  You've got to make them right for them to work.  (I learned the hard way.)  They need to taper gentley into the limbs.  If the taper is too abrupt, the patch will be prone to lifting, starting at either end of the patch.  Also, use Urac to glue them in and only use a VERY light clamping pressure, just the minimum to hold it in place.  I got that tip straight from Dean.  These things don't seem to work as well with a razor thin Urac glue line. 

In any case, that chrysal looks bad.  It's deep and right at a bad knot.  I don't know that a belly patch would save it.  Especially since there are alot of other crysals forming, I'd hang it up or if you can stomach it, just use it for kindling.  I'm not big on dicey fixes or just shooting bows till they blow up.  (I can't believe people actually do the latter.  I have an aversion to loud bangs in my face, painful smacks, and spilling blood.)

[Del the cat]

Actually, destruction testing can be a useful tool, it will let you feel just how much that wood can take. sometimes it's a surprise.
whenever I try something new I use the 'bad' staves I have lying around...it's impressive how much abuse some of 'em can take.
It all helps give you the feel and eye you need to make bows... or  'experience' as it's sometimes called.
I rawhide backed my 1hr bow and pulled the darned thing back to 28"...it didn't break...that taught me a lot more than pussy footing about at 26" and treting it with kid gloves.
Del

[Cacatch]

It sounds to me like you are attached to this bow, and really want to save it and I say go for it! The choice is pretty much up to you, and I don't know anything about the Dean Torges method or how well it might work. Myself, I would squirt layer after layer of Tightbond II or III into the knot and then wrap with real sinew, and do a wrap on the other limb in the exact same spot just so it's symmetrical and the compounders won't notice it and laugh at the repair. You can even paint over it so that it looks more like a design than a repair. Nobody but you and us will ever know.

But the thing you absolutely MUST do is as Destructo first said, retiller the bow. You will need to scape (or sand) some off the bottom limb to weaken it just a tad bit, and then start about an inch above the knot in question on the top limb and reduce from there out so that the limb bends more. The bow ain't gonna last forever, but no wood bow does. But I say by all means, patch it however you like. You will gain the experience and extend the shooting life of the bow, at least a while.

CP

[Diligence]

Thanks again to all for the good advice.  Yes, I'm really attached to this bow.  Mainly because it is my first, but also because I think it was a very hard stave to cut my teeth on.

El_D and Cacatch are right, it's amazing how much out of tiller that bow looks after the fret occurred.  The tiller was previously spot on, but that fret really caused some havoc.

I'm going to put this one on the wall for now, I'll fix some time in the future when I feel I understand more about repairs, etc.....as JW_Halvorsen said,"you only get one first bow"...and I'd hate to wreck it in ignorance.

I've already started on a new bow. I'll post some pics and get your thoughts as I move along in the tillering process.

Cheers,
J

[El Destructo]

                               Good Luck...and Smart Move...because you do only get one....First Bow......

[George Tsoukalas]

You could try gluing on a rawhide patch right over the chrysals.  Seriously, do tiller knots to not bend as much as the rest of the limb. Jawge

[radius]

take a trip to BC and get some yew

[JW_Halverson]

as JW_Halvorsen said,"you only get one first bow"...and I'd hate to wreck it in ignorance.

My first bow developed a crack across the upper limb, slight lifting of grain, could possibly be repaired by superglue and sinew backing the bow.  But I have left it like this for the last 6 years because if it didn't work then it would look worse and I'd know that I had really killed the poor thing.  No, she is on the first peg on my bow rack and will for always hold that special place.

[Mechslasher]

definately a black eye waiting to happen.  i'm all for other people experimenting with different woods but this is one of the main reasons i use osage.  it may cost a little more but worth it in the long run.