Locust/Hickory Taper Q

[PeteDavis]

Howdy-

I just got a nice bow kit. It it a BL board, all 1/4 sawn, 2" w x 3/4" x 72". It came with a 1/4 sawn hickory strip. I plan to glue this up with URAC. How thin should I plane the backing strip before I apply it? It's too thick now at 3/16". Then, what would be a good set of starting taper dimensions for thickness from the laminated stave? Would the board bow tapers on GeorgeandJoni site suffice? Ought they be a tad thicker to compensate for the strip. I'd retain about 1 7/8" width. Advice appreciated in advance. I may do a few of these in various species since I have to buy the URAC anyway, but the BL version will come first. Also, someone had mentioned trapping the edge of BL to make it behave better in compression. Can someone explain that to me along with the inside thickness tapers? I can tiller with great patience but a starting taper may help me given the consistency of my board. I want a 60# unit at 70" when I get done.

PD

[George Tsoukalas]

Peter, you better wait for advice. I've never really done a glued up bow and those are directions of mine are for selfies or bows backed with silk, linen or burlap. Jawge

[Pat B]

When I cut hickory backing strips I usually go 3/16" thick and after dressing both top and bottom come out with 1/8" thick. You can always reduce the thickness after the glue-up or while tillering if necessary.
  With bow bellies I always start thick(1/2" to 3/4" after the fade) and tiller down the limbs so the limbs bend evenly and together just like I do when making a self bow, before gluing the back to the belly. I do not pre-measure and cut the thickness and side taper but work into a nicely bending limb at floor tiller.
  At glue up I add 3" of Perry Reflex and generally end up with 1" to 2" when it comes off the clamps with a finished profile at 1" or flat profile after unbracing and resting.
  A bit more info is needed to determining length and front profile; draw length and draw weight.

[Hojo]

Pete-
With regard to your trapping question, I believe what you are referring to is the beveling of the sides of the bow so that the belly is wider than the back.  With more wood on the belly, it is better able to handle the compression.

[Ryano]

Pete, I have made quite a few bows out of this combo and it works pretty well if you take your time tillering. 1/8" on the hickory is a good place to start. I personally would narrow the bow up a little, backed bows don't need to be as wide as a board or selfbow. 1 1/2" should be plenty. My core wood I usualy start out around 7/16" thick with a glued on handle. Here's a picture of one I did a couple years ago.

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[PeteDavis]

Thanks all. Ryano beautiful bow. I'll try a narrower profile and taper from 3/4" to 7/16" and tiller from there. Thanks. PD